Backpacking the Riviera (Trip Report)

cwgraffix · 01-17-2005

Budget for 18 days: 10,000 pesos

Accomodation:
Dec.26-Dec.1 (the busiest time of year, mostly Texan-Oakie-Americans) -
Urban Hostel Deluxe, Av.10 Calle 4y6 (100pesos/night)
I would love to meet the person who thought up the "Deluxe" part.
I have stayed in many bad hostels, but this one was the worst ever. If you really hate someone, you know now where to send them. I have stayed in nicer jails.

Dec.2-Dec.3 (one or two white people) - La Candelaria, Valladolid, Av.35 Calle 42y44 (69pesos/night)
Inner peace. Sanctuary. The secret garden. 3 blocks away from "El Bazar", a comprehensive food court of authentic Yucataen food which, in my opinion, blew any joint in Playa out of the water (except for the El Oasis shrimp tacos, of course). Try the comida corrida at the stall in the corner on the opposite end from the main plaza. 45 minutes by bus, 30 minutes by collectivo (~20pesos) to Chichen Itza. It is a wonderful place to relax from the busy all night party of playa and prepare for an early morning tour of the ruins... You won't want to leave... it has an outdoor hammock and kitchen/garden area to use... if you want to try your hand at the local fair. And you can flush the TP!

Dec.4-Dec.11 (slow, mostly europeans and separatists from Quebec... never knew there were Canadians that couldn't speak english, remind me to learn some Français for next time) -
Hostel Playa, Av.25 Calle 8 (100pesos/night)
Now this is how it is done. 4 blocks from Mercado San Fransico. 3 blocks from the Beer Bucket. 2 blocks from semi-self service laundry (33 pesos 1 load wash and dry) 2 Blocks from Tacos Israel. Around the corner from Heather's Tamales to die for. Every bed has a net, fan, and locker. Beautiful woman walking around all day and laying down all night. Lounge area... kitchen... refridgerators. Friendly swiss girl at reception willing to do anything to make you happy :-) I can't believe I spent one night in the other place. Always remember to buy extra beer early on Sundays (the store won't sell liquor after 5)... You can make your money back on that nights stay by selling beer to guests who didn't know better. :-)

Food & Drink:
None of the tips I have got from this website were wrong... I printed the list and did about 75% of the taco and smaller places... Just some thoughts... the food in land seems much better... and when I say inland I don't mean 30th.... I mean not on the coast at all. The marlin tacos at El Oasis were terrible.... the Shrimp were excellent however. Service at El Serape was so slow and the food was average I just left waiting for my bill (asked 3 times)... they didn't seem to care. Breakfast at the stalls across from the bus station (the middle one in front of the diamond store) was great! I could not stop eating the tortas there. Hotest hot sauces had to be the green sauces at the no name bar and el oasis. The drinks at the Tequila Barrel are terrible. Go next door to the No Name. Always ask the bartender or waiter "¿como se llama?". Its amazing how great the service is when you know your server's name (except El Serape). Typical trendy mexican greeting is a hand slap followed by a fist punch (fist2fist not fist2mouth)... The locals will highly respect you if you great them by their name followed by that. Jazz: Aspianados was shite... a guy on some maya flute and another on some bongos playing over pre-recorded tracks.... Not quite Getz, Gilberto, or Jobim. Beer: Don't go to Mexico for beer. It is expensive and tastes horrible... unless you live in America then it is a step up I guess. Always remember to buy people drinks and food when you are on a budget... it is good karma and you will be reciprocated usually more so then you put out.

Ruins:
Get there by 8-8:30am. At Tulum I arrived at 8:30... There was not one tour bus... when I was leaving at 9:50... there was 40 buses. Chichen Itza was a bit better... I guess it takes the tour buses longer to get there from Cancún. But I was there at 8:30 and it was great... I managed to take a picture of the main pyramid with no tourists in it.

Collectivos:
The cornerstone of my trip. Beach hoping from Playa to Tulum and back could not be any easier. 17 pesos to Paamul (great beach and snorkelling), 19 pesos to Akumal (again great beach and snorkelling), and 25 pesos to Tulum (well... great beach). They run early (5ish) to late (12ish) so don't worry about the schedule... I never waited longer than 6 minutes. Departue point in Playa is Av.15-20yCalle 2. Return collectivo stand in Tulum is the south end of the main drag.... otherwise just stand on the side of Highway 307. They ought to have these everywhere in the world.

Seashells:
It makes a great gift when you are a cheap bastard. Small wicker basket... some sand, a small dead brain coral in the middle, surrounded by all sorts of dead sea life. Walk north past coco beach near the abandoned palapalas... lots of shells. Put a mini bottle of tequila and a palm tree cocktail umbrella in the basket for extra efffect. cellophane wrapped and ready to go. My friends are so happy.

Pics:
http://community.webshots.com/album/253075922WJHWxz

People: I met so many... where to start?
Sunseekers Tommy & Donna much love...
Bob & Karin, the cutest couple in the world
Scott & Terry (don't worry she's not perfect)
Denise & Keith, La quinta is not 5th without a sighting
The Holmes Family, unforgettable hospitality and the best house in or around Playa!
Jez & Andy, yo ho and a bottle of rum. Will run the gauntlet with you in the Canaries this summer!
Kinz, next time, mamitas bro!
Andy, Anne, Alexa & Peter... a great party family :-)
Tyra... Mmmmmm. Nothin better than a Texas gal
Squish... Laaaaaa... heavenly toes... godly legs.
Susie Q... I am jealous... truely.
Jacko, sorry I didn't get to drink more with you...
JoanieB and Hubby with strange cajun nick... u guys are great
JIMMMMMMMY
damn who else... so many people... McCashMan... it was a pleasure.
oh yeah... Roni & Kathy sorry you missed the fat cat!
MünchenChick u. Mann... prosit!
Ginger and Fam... thanks for everything! I'm sorry if it rained on your disney parade
Big Dave. You gotta see this guy standing next to a mayan waiter. lol!
To any misc. Longhorn fans... phoey. Go Blue!
and last but not least James, Anna, the Babe, and Heather for making this all possible.

peace.

Michael · 01-17-2005

Thanks for a great trip report.

As expected, it contains lots of useful info.

And of-course the food tastes better in my wife’s home state, however there are a lot of very good dining options in Playa.

vacationstar · 01-17-2005

Thanks for the trip report and great pictures. The report answered my questions on costs to several points I plan to visit. I was going to take the bus but the collective sounds more the way to go.

Entilzha · 01-17-2005

Dec.4-Dec.11 (slow, mostly europeans and separatists from Quebec... never knew there were Canadians that couldn't speak english, remind me to learn some Français for next time)

Should have gotten mad but I just couln't. At least there is one more yank who now knows that there are french-speaking quebecois.

PS: There are a lot more mexicans that can't speak english

Jan.26-Dec.1 (the busiest time of year, mostly Texas-Americans) -
Urban Hostel Deluxe, Av.10 Calle 4y6 (100pesos/night)
I would love to meet the person who thought up the "Deluxe" part.
I have stayed in many bad hostels, but this one was the worst ever. If you really hate someone, you know now where to send them. I have stayed in nicer jails.

I do hope it was Nov.26-Dec 1 or it would have really felt like jail. Speaking of which: If it was that bad, why did you stay there so long?

Mucha bueno trip report

Entilzha · 01-17-2005

Shoot! I just noticed that you are austrian so I can forgive you

cuffedlinks · 01-17-2005

Chris,

Great job!
So glad you chose to put your trip report in after all...!!

cwgraffix · 01-17-2005

ooops yeah got the dates wrong... I let out my flat to some russians when I was in Mexico and they stocked my fridge with vodka :-) BTW I am from California... not Austira... just live here.

I really must give u great thanks for the half moon bay tip Entilzha!!! That was the most useful post I read. I have a question for you.... I saw that barracuda in a half meter of water about 3 meters from the beach. Is that a bit unusual? It was the last place I was expecting the first encounter!!!!

**sctx** · 01-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwgraffix

(don't worry she's not perfect)

yeah...... YOU can say that....I'm stickin to another story

Did you really have a backpack????

andy766 · 01-17-2005

Aspianados, I don't see what the big deal is about this place. I did not like the food or the music. The torta's, now that's a great breakfast. The mixed drinks at the T.B. are awful but it's a great people watching bar. OM has good mixed drinks. I agree, Micheal does have the best party house but I have the cleanest bathroom closet to all the bars. I'm glad you had a great time and was a pleasure meeting you. Andy

cwgraffix · 01-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by michaelholmes

And of-course the food tastes better in my wife’s home state, however there are a lot of very good dinning options in Playa.

You make a great point there... there is food, and there is dining.
There was not much dining inland... but the food was better than some of the finer dining experiences I had.

If you are ever in Berkeley, Mike, you have to try these 4 restaurants for ultimate dining (my 4 favs):

#1: http://www.chezpanisse.com/
#2: http://www.lalimes.com/
#3: http://www.rivolirestaurant.com/
#4: http://www.fondasolana.com/ (say hi to Tamir, he booked my Mexico Tickets)

The best deli sandwhich in the world is located here in Oakland:

Genova Deli, 5095 Telegraph Ave @ 51st, (Temescal) Open: M - Sa: 8AM - 7PM, Su: 8AM - 6PM, T: 510.652.7401

Take a number, pick your bread out of the bin, and wait in the crowd for one of the best deli sandwiches you'll find in the World. A great place to stop for Italian deli foods for a day trip or picnic - real pizza by the slice, foccaccia, ravioli and lasagna, marinated mushrooms, deep fried artichoke hearts, and much much more! I always go here to get a sandwich to take on the plane with me when I travel. Worth the crowd and the wait! You'll spend $5 on a sandwich and salad items are sold by quantity or weight. Say Hi to Jake for me... he looks like Nixon. Try a Roast Beef with swiss and dijon... and get a quart of chicken salad and 20 slices of Peppered Salami.... wrap the chicken salad up like a taco with the salami... de-friggin-licous

roni · 01-17-2005

Good report!! It was great meeting you. As to missing the fat cat - well, it was a pity, but we survived - and may have felt better the 31st for missing it

Entilzha · 01-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwgraffix

ooops yeah got the dates wrong... I let out my flat to some russians when I was in Mexico and they stocked my fridge with vodka :-) BTW I am from California... not Austira... just live here.

I really must give u great thanks for the half moon bay tip Entilzha!!! That was the most useful post I read. I have a question for you.... I saw that barracuda in a half meter of water about 3 meters from the beach. Is that a bit unusual? It was the last place I was expecting the first encounter!!!!

That must have been Barry. There is a rumor that he has moved from Akumal Bay to HMB. Was he surrounded by a school of tarpons?

cwgraffix · 01-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by sctx

yeah...... YOU can say that....I'm stickin to another story

That was an insider thing that only Terry would undertstand :-) Wasn't talkin' bout her.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sctx

Did you really have a backpack????

Yeah just one small school jansport. With a snorkel kit, a didi bag, and some shirts and swim trunks!

cwgraffix · 01-17-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Entilzha

That must have been Barry. There is a rumor that he has moved from Akumal Bay to HMB. Was he surrounded by a school of tarpons?

He was about one and half arm lengths and in the middle of a school... I think they were grey snapper... but not sure.... little whitefish very shiny with black eyes and a thin dark strip going from the eye 3/4's the way to the tail about the size of 1-2 palms.... LOTS of them... could not see anything but them... what happened was a pelicun snaped one out of the water right in front of me... and they scattered... then I went chasing the school and ran into him. I just found it odd that it was so shallow... my belly was on the sand. on the left side of the wading pool.

Jacko · 01-17-2005

Hey Chris, great report! I am going to use all your info next time we go down when we plan on doin' it on the cheap! Maybe then we can afford to stay as long as you did. I loved the green hot sauce at Oasis!

Great report, great advice...I, too wish we had more time to share a few more drinks. Hasta la a proxima vez!

01-17-2005	#1 (permalink)
cwgraffix beachaholic Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Vienna, Austria Posts: 265	Backpacking the Riviera (Trip Report) Budget for 18 days: 10,000 pesos Accomodation: Dec.26-Dec.1 (the busiest time of year, mostly Texan-Oakie-Americans) - Urban Hostel Deluxe, Av.10 Calle 4y6 (100pesos/night) I would love to meet the person who thought up the "Deluxe" part. I have stayed in many bad hostels, but this one was the worst ever. If you really hate someone, you know now where to send them. I have stayed in nicer jails. Dec.2-Dec.3 (one or two white people) - La Candelaria, Valladolid, Av.35 Calle 42y44 (69pesos/night) Inner peace. Sanctuary. The secret garden. 3 blocks away from "El Bazar", a comprehensive food court of authentic Yucataen food which, in my opinion, blew any joint in Playa out of the water (except for the El Oasis shrimp tacos, of course). Try the comida corrida at the stall in the corner on the opposite end from the main plaza. 45 minutes by bus, 30 minutes by collectivo (~20pesos) to Chichen Itza. It is a wonderful place to relax from the busy all night party of playa and prepare for an early morning tour of the ruins... You won't want to leave... it has an outdoor hammock and kitchen/garden area to use... if you want to try your hand at the local fair. And you can flush the TP! Dec.4-Dec.11 (slow, mostly europeans and separatists from Quebec... never knew there were Canadians that couldn't speak english, remind me to learn some Français for next time) - Hostel Playa, Av.25 Calle 8 (100pesos/night) Now this is how it is done. 4 blocks from Mercado San Fransico. 3 blocks from the Beer Bucket. 2 blocks from semi-self service laundry (33 pesos 1 load wash and dry) 2 Blocks from Tacos Israel. Around the corner from Heather's Tamales to die for. Every bed has a net, fan, and locker. Beautiful woman walking around all day and laying down all night. Lounge area... kitchen... refridgerators. Friendly swiss girl at reception willing to do anything to make you happy :-) I can't believe I spent one night in the other place. Always remember to buy extra beer early on Sundays (the store won't sell liquor after 5)... You can make your money back on that nights stay by selling beer to guests who didn't know better. :-) Food & Drink: None of the tips I have got from this website were wrong... I printed the list and did about 75% of the taco and smaller places... Just some thoughts... the food in land seems much better... and when I say inland I don't mean 30th.... I mean not on the coast at all. The marlin tacos at El Oasis were terrible.... the Shrimp were excellent however. Service at El Serape was so slow and the food was average I just left waiting for my bill (asked 3 times)... they didn't seem to care. Breakfast at the stalls across from the bus station (the middle one in front of the diamond store) was great! I could not stop eating the tortas there. Hotest hot sauces had to be the green sauces at the no name bar and el oasis. The drinks at the Tequila Barrel are terrible. Go next door to the No Name. Always ask the bartender or waiter "¿como se llama?". Its amazing how great the service is when you know your server's name (except El Serape). Typical trendy mexican greeting is a hand slap followed by a fist punch (fist2fist not fist2mouth)... The locals will highly respect you if you great them by their name followed by that. Jazz: Aspianados was shite... a guy on some maya flute and another on some bongos playing over pre-recorded tracks.... Not quite Getz, Gilberto, or Jobim. Beer: Don't go to Mexico for beer. It is expensive and tastes horrible... unless you live in America then it is a step up I guess. Always remember to buy people drinks and food when you are on a budget... it is good karma and you will be reciprocated usually more so then you put out. Ruins: Get there by 8-8:30am. At Tulum I arrived at 8:30... There was not one tour bus... when I was leaving at 9:50... there was 40 buses. Chichen Itza was a bit better... I guess it takes the tour buses longer to get there from Cancún. But I was there at 8:30 and it was great... I managed to take a picture of the main pyramid with no tourists in it. Collectivos: The cornerstone of my trip. Beach hoping from Playa to Tulum and back could not be any easier. 17 pesos to Paamul (great beach and snorkelling), 19 pesos to Akumal (again great beach and snorkelling), and 25 pesos to Tulum (well... great beach). They run early (5ish) to late (12ish) so don't worry about the schedule... I never waited longer than 6 minutes. Departue point in Playa is Av.15-20yCalle 2. Return collectivo stand in Tulum is the south end of the main drag.... otherwise just stand on the side of Highway 307. They ought to have these everywhere in the world. Seashells: It makes a great gift when you are a cheap bastard. Small wicker basket... some sand, a small dead brain coral in the middle, surrounded by all sorts of dead sea life. Walk north past coco beach near the abandoned palapalas... lots of shells. Put a mini bottle of tequila and a palm tree cocktail umbrella in the basket for extra efffect. cellophane wrapped and ready to go. My friends are so happy. Pics: http://community.webshots.com/album/253075922WJHWxz People: I met so many... where to start? Sunseekers Tommy & Donna much love... Bob & Karin, the cutest couple in the world Scott & Terry (don't worry she's not perfect) Denise & Keith, La quinta is not 5th without a sighting The Holmes Family, unforgettable hospitality and the best house in or around Playa! Jez & Andy, yo ho and a bottle of rum. Will run the gauntlet with you in the Canaries this summer! Kinz, next time, mamitas bro! Andy, Anne, Alexa & Peter... a great party family :-) Tyra... Mmmmmm. Nothin better than a Texas gal Squish... Laaaaaa... heavenly toes... godly legs. Susie Q... I am jealous... truely. Jacko, sorry I didn't get to drink more with you... JoanieB and Hubby with strange cajun nick... u guys are great JIMMMMMMMY damn who else... so many people... McCashMan... it was a pleasure. oh yeah... Roni & Kathy sorry you missed the fat cat! MünchenChick u. Mann... prosit! Ginger and Fam... thanks for everything! I'm sorry if it rained on your disney parade Big Dave. You gotta see this guy standing next to a mayan waiter. lol! To any misc. Longhorn fans... phoey. Go Blue! and last but not least James, Anna, the Babe, and Heather for making this all possible. peace. __________________ Vienna Weather Live Last edited by cwgraffix; 01-17-2005 at 07:07 PM.

01-17-2005	#2 (permalink)
Michael añejo Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Silicon Valley, California Posts: 4,162	Thanks for a great trip report. As expected, it contains lots of useful info. And of-course the food tastes better in my wife’s home state, however there are a lot of very good dining options in Playa. Last edited by michaelholmes; 01-17-2005 at 08:40 PM.

01-17-2005	#4 (permalink)
Entilzha beachaholic Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Sherbrooke QC Posts: 289	Dec.4-Dec.11 (slow, mostly europeans and separatists from Quebec... never knew there were Canadians that couldn't speak english, remind me to learn some Français for next time) Should have gotten mad but I just couln't. At least there is one more yank who now knows that there are french-speaking quebecois. PS: There are a lot more mexicans that can't speak english Jan.26-Dec.1 (the busiest time of year, mostly Texas-Americans) - Urban Hostel Deluxe, Av.10 Calle 4y6 (100pesos/night) I would love to meet the person who thought up the "Deluxe" part. I have stayed in many bad hostels, but this one was the worst ever. If you really hate someone, you know now where to send them. I have stayed in nicer jails. I do hope it was Nov.26-Dec 1 or it would have really felt like jail. Speaking of which: If it was that bad, why did you stay there so long? Mucha bueno trip report Last edited by Entilzha; 01-17-2005 at 06:21 PM.

01-17-2005	#3 (permalink)
vacationstar beachaholic Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Maple Grove, MN Posts: 415	Thanks for the trip report and great pictures. The report answered my questions on costs to several points I plan to visit. I was going to take the bus but the collective sounds more the way to go.

01-17-2005	#5 (permalink)
Entilzha beachaholic Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Sherbrooke QC Posts: 289	Shoot! I just noticed that you are austrian so I can forgive you

01-17-2005	#6 (permalink)
cuffedlinks añejo Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: The City of Presidents Posts: 16,003	Chris, Great job! So glad you chose to put your trip report in after all...!!

01-17-2005	#7 (permalink)
cwgraffix beachaholic Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Vienna, Austria Posts: 265	ooops yeah got the dates wrong... I let out my flat to some russians when I was in Mexico and they stocked my fridge with vodka :-) BTW I am from California... not Austira... just live here. I really must give u great thanks for the half moon bay tip Entilzha!!! That was the most useful post I read. I have a question for you.... I saw that barracuda in a half meter of water about 3 meters from the beach. Is that a bit unusual? It was the last place I was expecting the first encounter!!!!

01-17-2005	#9 (permalink)
andy766 beachaholic Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 342	Aspianados, I don't see what the big deal is about this place. I did not like the food or the music. The torta's, now that's a great breakfast. The mixed drinks at the T.B. are awful but it's a great people watching bar. OM has good mixed drinks. I agree, Micheal does have the best party house but I have the cleanest bathroom closet to all the bars. I'm glad you had a great time and was a pleasure meeting you. Andy

01-17-2005	#11 (permalink)
roni Happy Curmudgeon Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 26,515	Good report!! It was great meeting you. As to missing the fat cat - well, it was a pity, but we survived - and may have felt better the 31st for missing it

01-17-2005	#15 (permalink)
Jacko añejo Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 18,338	Hey Chris, great report! I am going to use all your info next time we go down when we plan on doin' it on the cheap! Maybe then we can afford to stay as long as you did. I loved the green hot sauce at Oasis! Great report, great advice...I, too wish we had more time to share a few more drinks. Hasta la a proxima vez!

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