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#1 (permalink) |
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añejo
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 6,496
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Our Beach/snorkel experiences along 307 & in PDC
This is written from our experience as a family of four, using collectivos, taxis and feet as transportation:
COCO BEACH (ZUBUL BEACH BAR) We loved this place! Walked up after breakfast … and would have stayed all day, except the afternoon winds started whipping sand around. An energetic, very friendly waiter named Moses kept us plied with cold beers, serviceable margaritas, and agua frutas.Especially in the morning, when the wind and waves tend to be calmer, this is a great place for a family to relax. Parents have a good vantage point from their lounge chairs, the kids can play in the soft sand. The water entry is gentle, as is the surf, and the longshore current is not too bad. Of course, it’s a great scene if you don’t have kids, too! A lot of regulars wandered up from Playa throughout the day. Unfortunately, I only got in one snorkel trip to the reef (it got too rough after that). But what I did see was impressive; a lot of variety of fish, coral in good shape.We had multiple drinks and a full lunch at the Zubul Beach Bar; drinks and food weren’t obscenely expensive, and the food was quite good. Adults and kids were all able to find appetizing choices. Cash only. There is also a swing bar, and tables with chairs under the palapa roof.Don Gregorio enthusiastically recommends the masseuse who is there. The younger guy charged 250 pesos for a thorough, 45-minute massage. Whenever we’re in Playa, we will definitely make a visit back. It’s well worth the walk or cab fare! YAL-KU LAGOON – AKUMAL BAY We got to Yal-ku fairly early on Saturday morning; just a few others there, and no “crowds” until we were ready to leave.We saw lots of colorful fish: sergeant majors, tangs, surgeonfish, small parrotfish, a few angelfish, young barracudas and a large houndfish, chubs and small jacks and snappers. There was a slight current leading out to sea, which caused some cloudy visibility. The girls still remembered the large barracuda they saw in April 03 as the lagoon empties into the sea, so we couldn’t get them beyond the rocky lagoon area. Took a cab back to the main part of town (about 50 pesos), and parked ourselves under the palm trees on the beach. Midday snorkeling was only so-so; chalked it up to a lot of swimmers and boat traffic. Girls enjoyed playing in the sand, and the water. Akumal Bay Beach is GREAT for families with smaller children. There is practically no surf, and the entry into the water is very sandy, and very gradual. You can go out for several yards, and it is still shallow. Low-key atmosphere, attracts tourist and local families. You can enjoy the beach without having to rent a lounge chair, or commit to buying food & drink from a beach bar; but we have, in the past, eaten at Lol-ha, and had drinks there. Both are very good, but comparatively expensive. There is also a shop next to Lol-ha with wonderful crafts and jewelry, if you are in a browsing mood.If you want to see the “good stuff” snorkeling, I recommend waiting until about 3:30, when the crowds thin. We did that, and saw six turtles, a reef squid, and tons of fish. We didn’t go out too far; in front of Lol-Ha, between where the catamaran and big sailboat are anchored. Then we went over to the roped-off area along the seawall – that’s where we saw the most turtles. We went back to both places on Wednesday. Got a later start than we meant to, and Yal-ku was already crowded. Also, the current out to sea was much more pronounced, and created more visibility issues. We still enjoyed our snorkeling, saw some specimens we hadn’t before, and were ready to spend the rest of the afternoon on the main beach.Once again, it paid to wait until later in the day for snorkeling. Saw more turtles, a cowfish, a huge school of fish with a gi-normous snapper in the middle of it, a sting ray, and other schools of reef fish. For the best snorkeling experience, you might want to go for the trifecta of Yal-ku in the morning, Half Moon Bay at midday/lunchtime, and Akumal Bay in the later afternoon. I would only recommend this for adults, as we once tried it with the kids and that Half Moon Bay stop really sapped their energy level.We took the collectivo down. The walk from 307 took us 10-15 minutes; adults could do it faster. The two times we went, we never saw a taxi at 307 or Paamul, so plan to walk both ways. They have made nice improvements after the fire. The bar/restaurant is back and better than ever; instead of a palapa, it now has sort of a hacienda look -- an open-air stone deck for the eating area, a flat roof, with stone work and concrete leading to a pool area. The pool area was a huge hit with the kids.The beach is still scenic, with good beachcombing (use water shoes or similar protection). The snorkeling wasn’t as good as I remember from my April 03 trip, but we were there at low tide this time, and there was strong current and surf. Yes, the big barracuda is still hanging around the boats, waiting for a handout. Didn’t see the green moray eel, though, and just as happy. In terms of food, drink and service, the Paamul beach bar was far and away the best we enjoyed this trip. Beers were always cold; the margaritas were very good, and the food was excellent. We did not consider their prices outrageous for a beach bar. (And if it keeps the owners from selling out to a mega-resort, we consider it a good investment) Cash only.The only downside to the improvements is that Paamul now attracts cruise ship crowds. We first went on a Sunday, and shared the place with a few people staying there, and a few Mexican families. That was a nice atmosphere. We went back on Thursday, and there were several dozen people snorkeling in the bay, splashing in the pool, or taking up space in the restaurant. That wasn't as nice, but they were gone by lunchtime. Can’t begrudge the proprietors for wanting to make some money back on their investment, but if there is a way to find out when the cruise ships will be visiting, you might want to plan around that. But even if you can’t, I still recommend visiting. There is a young woman there selling embroidery – her stuff is nice, but she was shifty in her money-handling with me, so make sure you are clear on her quoted price, and that the change she gives you reflects said quoted price. There also may be a man there with silver jewelry; we were happy with the quality and prices he offered.This is an easy-to-pass-by beach club about 3 K north of the Tulum ruins. Going south on 307, it’s way south of Tankah Bay. On the left, look for a small Mayan ruin near the road. Continuing to look on the left, further down 307 there will be a large but hard to read vinyl sign, hung fairly high up. That is the entrance. At the gate, you pay an admission fee: I think 35 pesos for adults, 25 pesos for older kids, and our youngest was free. You have to walk to the beach, maybe half a mile, a little hilly in parts, through shady jungle. They are open every day from 9 am to 7 pm. Cash only.The shoreline/beach area has two parts: there is the mouth of an underground river emptying out into the sea, forming a sort of pool; there is also a stretch of sandy beach with waves that are lively but not threatening. Visually, it is all beautiful and restful. The river pool is very refreshing on a hot day. But be attentive to the strong current pushing out to sea. I wouldn’t let anyone under 12 swim in that pool without active adult supervision. Right around the sandy entrance would be okay for small children, but once a child gets out to their waist, the current kicks in. There are ropes to grab strung across the mouth and other end of the pool, but I wasn’t comfortable with that as my only line of defense.There are a lot of fish in the pool, but the current and fresh/salt water mix made for lousy visibility. With the current, it’s a lot of work without much payoff. There might be good snorkeling at the northern part of the beach, but I didn’t get to it. Our kids enjoyed playing in the surf here; that’s where they spent most of their water time. The waves swelled around them, rather than breaking; a sandy bottom was easy on their feet; jacks darted around them, and the undertow wasn’t too daunting. My husband and I joined them most of the time; but kids 7 and up could go in by themselves, with supervision.Back on land, there are two areas where hammocks are strung amongst palm trees (one on the sandy beach part; the other overlooking the river pool). There are also lounge chairs and chairs & tables around the beach. There is also a beach bar/restaurant. They had great “comfort” facilities: nice, clean bathrooms, a GREAT outdoor shower, with wonderful water quality & temp, and private changing rooms.Another potential added value of this property is that there are several cenotes. Do not waste your time with the one closest the beach. It's a long walk to a fetid puddle. (though no doubt sacred in its own way) We were later told that the better cenotes are near the 307 entrance. Supposedly those two cenotes are deeper, and used for diving. We did not check them out, but would if we went back. [/indent]The girls and I found good shell hunting in the rocks along the shore, past the river pool. You also get a nice view of the Tulum ruins. It was clear from the prices on the menu that the bar/restaurant caters to unknowing tourists; we felt the food was uncomfortably overpriced, and their drink “specials” in coconuts and pineapples could fool you into thinking you had to spend $7 for a mixed drink.They do seem to work in conjunction with tours, and offer tours of their own; when we were there, there was a bicycle-based tour of about 20 people. Not a problem; both the restaurant and beach offer plenty of space to spread out. [indent]I sensed a real conservative element pervading the atmosphere there, in terms of toplessness. Even those guests at the “outer reaches” of the beach area kept (all) their bathing suits on. Forgive me for suggesting that this might be a “plus” for some -- but Caleta Tankah may be a good option for anyone who would like to experience the sandy beaches of Tulum, but is about encountering toplessness or nudity. A multi-faceted beach experience that’s worth trying at least once; pay attention to what you’re spending on food and drink! PLAYA DEL CARMEN (EL PIRATA BEACH BAR) Ironically enough, whenever we’ve stayed in Playa del Carmen, we’ve never gone to the beach there – we used it as a “crash pad” and explored other beaches along 307. Not that there’s anything wrong with that … but when asked to choose a day’s activity, our youngest pointed out this egregious oversight. We had a wonderful morning (and returned for an even better evening!) at El Pirata Beach Bar. It’s between Calle 10 and 12 on the beach, attached to Hotel Costa del Mar.What attracted us most was El Pirata’s beachfront (and we walked up and down to choose!). It is nothing but sand all the way out to the water, and the water entry was very gentle and gradual (no big drop-offs or rocks). Also, the day we were there, there seemed to be fewer boats anchored there than at other points on the beach. Beer, drinks, breakfast and lunch are reasonably priced and served by friendly waiters. A waiter will also set you up with a lounge chair, table and umbrella (free if you buy drinks). When you need shade, you can retire to the swing bar; there are also tables and chairs under some palm trees and palapas right there.It’s a great place to catch rays while you read a book or listen to tunes. A very low-key atmosphere – not euro-chic at all. The kids liked building in the sand, and my youngest, 7, had to be dragged out of the water, she was having such a great time in the surf. A few thimble jellies in the water, but they were easily avoided, and did not seem to bother any of us. There is also a small swimming pool, but I'm not sure if that is only for the hotel guests.El Pirata is also a great place to have pre-dinner drinks, up under the palm trees. Great scenery, and a cooling breeze. We met a bunch of playa.info peeps here; time and cervesas just flew by! Great place to set up camp for a day of in-town sun & swimming; and/or for scenic drinks later on.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Awesome report! I too really enjoyed this spot. In fact, i spent every day there except one afternoon at Mamitas to check out the Latin Band. -Shawn |
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