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Not sure if you're up for renting a car - but, every time we've stopped in Cozumel on a cruise, we're rented a car and driven around the entire island. As the previous poster mentioned, there are lots of great little beach bars and "off the beaten path" places worth checking out. It's not quite as crowded and more "authentic" in my opinion. We personally like Coconuts & Mezcalito's (sp?).
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