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Old 07-16-2005   #1 (permalink)
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Trip report June 2005

I know people are understandably very concerned with the hurricane at the moment, so I hope my timing is not considered insensitive. But I finally finished our trip report, so here it is...

Day 1 (June 24th)

We took a red-eye flight and landed at Cancun at 10:00 am. There weren't many other flights in at that time, and 25 minutes after landing we were through immigration and customs and had found our driver. We indulged and booked the car through the hotel. It's nice to go directly to the hotel, especially after an overnight flight.

Since we arrived so early, our room was not ready yet. We left the bags and walked to the beach. What a beautiful sight, every time. We had a delicious feast at Playa Maya (shrimp ceviche, coconut shrimp and fish tacos.)
We went back to the hotel, checked in and got settled. We had a standard plus room on the 3rd floor; we had nice view of the pool area. The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering around town and shopping. The lack of sleep was starting to be felt, so we opted for an early dinner at Aca Los Tacos (5th and Constituyentes). The tacos are really good; I especially like the ones with the queso fundido.

Day 2

A beach day. We started with breakfast at the hotel, and then went to Mamitas. The weather was great and we enjoyed the lazing about and playing in the water. I left only when I had to in order to meet with our wedding coordinator to work out some details. As I mentioned in another post Raquel was great, and she deserves another shout-out here: http://www.weddingsinplayadelcarmen.com

We did a little more wandering/shopping on 5th, then had dinner at Pancho Villa. It was pretty good. Not the most memorable meal of the week, but good. I had chicken mole and raulg had shrimp flambé cooked tableside. The presentation of the shrimp was impressive.

Today raulg learned that even he can get sunburned. It was a new experience for him.


Day 3

A lot like day 2 (more beach!), with the addition of some decent rain showers while at Mamitas. When it rained, most people abandoned their chairs and crowded into the covered areas of the restaurant. After a couple of these showers I decided the people who stayed in the water while it rained had the right idea. Being in the warm water with the rain falling was fun.
After another successful beach day, we cleaned up and did some more shopping, then dinner (detecting a pattern here?) We ate at La Quinta Pasion (5th and calle 26.) This was a very good meal, and a good value. I had a pescado veracruzana dish, and raulg had one of the molcajete meals. That was a huge portion; both were delicious. We would definitely recommend this restaurant.

Some more wandering after dinner; we ended up at the Blue Parrot. We were sitting at a table on the beach just relaxing, admiring the view of the lights from Cozumel. After awhile we noticed we couldn't see them anymore; it seemed a big dark rain cloud had taken over the sky. A few minutes later, the wind really picked up and in about 3 seconds everyone on the beach had run for cover.

It poured for about 10 minutes; I felt sorry for the waiters running around trying to match checks with people. I'm sure they had a tough time closing out that night.

Day 4

Definitely not a beach day. Last night's showers were just a preview of today. The first rain started while we were having breakfast (had to change tables to stay dry) and continued off and on (mostly on) all morning. What to do in Playa in the rain? Shop! Last year raulg got some very nice guayabera (shirts) at a place called Acosta's (40th Ave and Calle 32). They have great quality shirts and fair prices. This year he got 3 more, including a really fancy one (the woman called it "presidential" )

After that we grabbed lunch at Dr. Taco. Very yummy (and cheap.) The rain was still coming down and the street drainage wasn't keeping up. Scooter riders were driving with their feet straight out in front of them.

The weather didn't look like it was going to improve much, so we called our wedding coordinator and decided to postpone the ceremony one day. Since it was a small event (no guests) it was possible to do.

With that settled we spent the rest of the afternoon in a variety of eating and drinking establishments reading and watching the rain and the people parade. We ended up with dinner at Da Bruno. The food was disappointing--bland and forgettable. I wouldn't go back; there are much better meals to be eaten in Playa.

After being serenaded by some passing musicians and a little more people watching and a stop at No Name, we called it a day.

Day 5

No rain today, so it was back to the beach right after breakfast. Mamitas filled up quickly; I guess everyone wanted to be on the beach since the sun was out. We had a great time hanging out and playing around in the water. There were more waves today; they sort of lifted you up as they came by.
We enjoyed our 3rd lunch at Mamitas. Really, there is no better vacation activity than hanging out on a beautiful beach having someone bring you shrimp cocktail and beer for lunch.

Back to the hotel to clean up for the wedding. The photographers came to the hotel so we could take some pictures there, then to the beach for the ceremony. The wedding site was in Playacar (phase 1.) It was very quiet, just a few people around. It was just the low-key, romantic event we wanted. Everything was great: the flowers, the guitarist, the photographer (Kuyoky Photos); they were very professional and did great work, and we had the album two days after the wedding.

After the ceremony (and many pictures) we went back to the hotel, then out to dinner at El Trapiche. I would recommend this restaurant--very good food, lovely place and good service. I had the carnitas, which were delicious.

Day 6

Breakfast at La Tortuga, then we caught the 9:00 ferry to Cozumel. It was a beautiful morning on the water. Walked to SmartCar and got our $23 internet special "convertible" VW. The car had a very stripped down interior, but a really spiffy sparkly blue paint job.

Armed with our Mapchick map of Cozumel, we set off south. First stop was El Cedral, a small village with a church and a cross that is reported to be the first one constructed by the Spanish. There are also ruins of a Mayan temple. (The bathrooms here were very clean BTW.)

It was at this point we realized we didn't know where reverse was on the VW. (Who'd have thought that car had 6 forward gears?) So we proceeded in a forwardly manner to Paradise Beach Club. What a view! This is where we began our efforts to eat our way around the island. I had some delicious grilled fish and raulg had ceviche. As we were leaving another tourist rolled up in a VW and he helped us find reverse.

Now better prepared to get out of parking places, we continued north and stopped at El Mirador...gorgeous views here too, (Really this was the theme for the day; we went from one beautiful beach view to another.)

Next stop was Playa Bonita; we enjoyed some beverages and took advantage of the great swimming beach. We found ourselves in the middle of a school of fish while standing in very shallow water. At this point in the day the swim was very refreshing. Lots of good people watching here, too.

After awhile we continued on Coconuts. The views here really are something to see. More beverages and some very fresh guacamole were enjoyed. We were commenting on the fact that the music playing was all old US rock 'n' roll when the DJ broke in to do a station ID: XM Radio "Top Tracks"; that explained that. We were reading the graffiti people had written on the various surfaces when we noticed "So-and-so, New Hampshire, first vacation in 63 years." Provocative idea--what kind of life does one lead to never go on vacation?

Our last stop was Señor Iguana's for more refreshments. The fish tacos were delicious. The beach here was pretty rocky, though people were going in the water. Mostly we watched them fall down.

After this we headed back to return the car; we wandered around downtown for a bit, then caught the 6:00 ferry back to Playa.

Despite the eating tour of Cozumel, we found ourselves hungry for dinner later. We went to Cafe Tropical; the food here is really good, and with the deal card discount, very cheap. I had the lime soup, which was delicious. It also helped with the cold I had been nursing for a couple of days.

Early to bed tonight to prepare for...

Day 7--Playa.info's Cobá tour

The day started with an early pickup at Java Joe's. Right on time Mitch (our guide) appeared; at the van we met Miguel (our driver) and as an added bonus, Heather, who was there "unofficially". Three more quick stops, and the group was assembled.

After stopping for supplies and baño usage, we were off to the archaeological site. The experience at Cobá was different than Chichen Itza or Tulum, I think in part because most of the time you are under the jungle canopy many of the structures are not yet restored. It has a much "wilder" feel.

While at the site we had another guide who explained more about the history of the city and Mayan life. Our last stop was the pyramid which most of the group climbed. I had not climbed the pyramid at Chichen last year, and I was glad I decided climb this time. (BTW, going up was much easier than going down.) After climbing the pyramid and trekking back out to the parking area, we were ready for the ice-cold beverages waiting at the van. That might have been the best beer I ever had.

Our next stop was the Cho Ha cenote. What an experience! Heather described the cavern as "fantastical", and I think that is the most accurate description. And the water--amazingly clear and fresh. And after a few hours in the jungle, the swim was very refreshing.

Next stop was lunch--very good and really hit the spot. Across from the restaurant was the lake with the crocodiles discussed in another thread.

One the way back to town we made a few more stops; thanks to Miguel we all got to taste a pitaya http://www.answers.com/topic/pitaya. The honey store/factory was another highlight.

While we had a very full day, the tour never felt rushed. The vibe all day was laid-back; the playa.info folks do a really good job of making the experience fun and taking care of the group. We would definitely recommend this tour.

After getting back to town and cleaning up a bit, we headed over to Tequila Barrel for a pre-dinner beverage. We were going to go to Sol Food for dinner, but couldn't find it (?) We ended up at Las Tulipanes. Very nice atmosphere, good service, food was OK but not exceptional. I might give this one another try, though.

Day 8

Our last full day of vacation. I had planned on this being an all-beach day, and the weather cooperated. After breakfast at the hotel it was off to Mamitas. By 9:15 I had staked out our chairs. What a great, relaxing day. In and out of the water, lazing on the chair reading (by now I'm on novel #3 for the week.) After lunch (more shrimp cocktail!) raulg headed back, but I stayed at the beach until 5:00. (It's rough work, but someone has to do it.)

Dinner tonight was at Yaxche. This is a very nice place, but the food was not as good as we remembered from last year (that meal was one of the best of the trip.) The appetizer sampler was very good, but our main dishes were only OK. It might have just been what we ordered this time. I think we would still go back here, though.

Day 9

We got up early to take a walk on the beach, then breakfast at La Cueva del Chango. This was definitely worth the effort; the food was good and the fresh juices are not to be missed. No exaggeration, that might have been the best OJ I ever had.

Back to the hotel for a quick swim, then we had to pack. We had time for a little more hanging out on 5th before our ride to the airport.


All in all, another fun, relaxing week in Playa. The room and service at La Tortuga were as good as last time. They have added a few amenities, like bringing extra towels in the evening and doing turndown service. The breakfast and Mamitas passes are great perks.

There are more good restaurants than time, which is a good problem to have. And of course plenty of great spots for enjoying a beverage and watching the parade down 5th. It doesn't get mentioned a lot here, but Playa also has many places to get a good cup of coffee or a latte. They really know how to make espresso there.

As you can tell, we made good use of our Playa Deal Card again; this is definitely a good value.


Our vacation pics are posted here: http://denisemc.net/mexico05/home.htm
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'06 trip pics here
'05 trip pics here

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Old 07-16-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Enjoyed your vacation... I can imagine if I had not pushed and pushed on my husband it would be more and more years before vacation...he use to say they were over rated!
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Old 07-16-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Denise's report is a good and thorough one. I'll just add a couple of things.

She loves the beach. This time out I spent more time there than previously. In general I like hanging out with not a lot to do (I've worked on this skill over the years and am quite good at it, no brag, just fact). I supplement this by walking around town and talking to folks. I recommend this activity cuz you learn thing otherwise overlooked. I have some Spanish but you can do a lot of this with little to none.

The bookstore Pequeno Mundo is a good place to visit. This is a well stocked store. Books in Mexico are expensive, more so than in the U.S.

What is the price of an adjustable wrench in Playa? About the same as in the U.S. While there is a considerable difference in wages. About $3.00 U.S. a day for construction work, roughly, according to a couple of workers. The many hotels pay better. A Russian, Italian, etc. worker in the Resorts tend to be paid more for the same work than a Mexican worker does. A point lost on no one I met.


A number of the smaller hotels in town with less expensive rates have been bought up lately for conversion to condos. Depleting the number of "cheap" hotels in town, or so I have heard.

There is a lot of work in Playa, which is obvious to anyone looking. Rents are going up for local folks as the population increases.

A lot of construction workers live on the job sites while the work is on. This enables them to send more money back home though it's hard on the back. Workers come from all over the Republic.

Stop by and say hey to Marcella from Chiapas. Her booth is off fifth next to the Hertz stall. I met her last year and she had very little Spanish. She has more now and some English. You can buy a blouse or something from her there. She has a very nice smile.
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Old 07-16-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the trip report - it's very comprehensive and makes me jealous I wasn't more adventurous in Playa del Carmen than Los 3 Carboncitos... all the same, the food was great every single place we tried!!! another perfect Playa trip - what a special place - very special.
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Old 07-17-2005   #5 (permalink)
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congratulations .....on your marriage......
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Old 07-17-2005   #6 (permalink)
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Congratulations on your marrriage!!

Your report was excellent! Thank you. Your wedding pictures are beautiful! I love your rings.

Best wishes for a long, happy life toether!

Maureen
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Old 07-17-2005   #7 (permalink)
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Great trip report! And your pictures are wonderful!! You both looked so beautiful for your wedding ceremony, and I LOVE your rings! Congratulations and Best Wishes to you both. May you have many happy years together (and many more wonderful vacations in Playa!)
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Old 07-17-2005   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting so much about how your trip to Cozumel was... I have never been and now would like to go check it out there!
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Old 07-17-2005   #9 (permalink)
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Congratulations

Congratulations on your marriage. What a beautiful wedding!!


Great trip report!
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Old 07-17-2005   #10 (permalink)
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Congratulations, and thanks for posting such a great report.
 
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Old 07-17-2005   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nerak936
Great trip report! And your pictures are wonderful!! You both looked so beautiful for your wedding ceremony, and I LOVE your rings! Congratulations and Best Wishes to you both. May you have many happy years together (and many more wonderful vacations in Playa!)
The rings were (haggled for and) purchased in Playa (of course.)

Thanks to everyone for the good wishes
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Old 07-17-2005   #12 (permalink)
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Great tips

Congrats on your wedding love your wedding bands. Thanks for the great tips on restraunts ect. Looking forward to next years vacation
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Old 07-17-2005   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jperge
Thanks for posting so much about how your trip to Cozumel was... I have never been and now would like to go check it out there!
Since I don't dive, I sort of thought of Cozumel as "the place where the cruise ships dock." But once I checked out Mapchick's map I was really looking forward to going there. We had a lot of fun that day.

There are some other interesting things to do there; later we thought we would have liked to check out Punta Sur, for example. Next time...

(I have to say at this point I feel a little weird swapping vacation tips with the hurricane looming. But perhaps everyone who is haunting the board today could do with a little diversion
I am as concerned as everyone else here about the well-being of all who are there.)
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Old 07-17-2005   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for the report. Sounds like you had a fabulous time.

I think I missed what hotel you stayed at...
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Old 07-18-2005   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lolabella
Thanks for the report. Sounds like you had a fabulous time.

I think I missed what hotel you stayed at...
Man, I need a new copy editor.

We were at Hotel La Tortuga.
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