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#1 (permalink) |
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way into it
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 249
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chiles en nogada at El Trapiche
My absolute favorite Mexican dish is chiles en nogades, or chiles stuffed with picadillo in walnut sauce. I was privileged to participate in the making of this famous dish from Puebla, in Puebla, so I know how much work goes into it.
In Playa, we splurged on dinner at a new restaurant at the corner of 5th and 20th, "El Trapiche." They feature wonderful dishes from all over Mexico, and though you pay 5th avenue prices, the food is worth it. And you guessed it, they make decent chiles en nogada. To critique the chiles en nogada hardly seems fair - I was so happy just to eat them, it's okay that they used ground pork instead of shredded, and the sauce was a bit too sweet - it also looked like the walnuts were unpeeled. It was delicious! Another highlight of the menu is the Molcajete, or mortar. A beastly hot molcajete is brought to the table, and it contains a pool of excellent fresh-made tomato salsa surrounded by strips of grilled meat, veggies, cheese to be served with the salsa. For dessert, we tried the chocolate tamales - they're like brownies cooked in a corn husk. For most of my meals, I wander beyond 5th for simple food--but this restaurant is worthy of a special occasion. Buen provecho! |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,381
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#3 (permalink) |
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way into it
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 173
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El Trapiche
El Trapiche is indeed a terrific restaurant and you are right that it is a bit pricey. We found that you can do well by having a few appetizers, which are big, and then split a main dish. That is more than 2 can really eat.
I also love the chiles nogada, which are made with walnuts. Because they tasted a bit sweet, I asked the waiter what kind of nut they used and he did not know, so he brought me one from the kitchen. It was not a walnut, but pecans. Still great. For food lovers, here is the story. This dish was invented in Puebla to celebrate the victory that created Mexican independence. For this reason, the GREEN chile is stuffed and then mostly covered with a WHITE nogada sauce and then it always must be sprinkled with RED pomegranite seeds. There you have it.............The colors of the Mexican Flag. Wave them high and dig in. It sure beats a Blueberry and strawberry shortcake for the US of A July 4th celebration. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Chupacabras Whisperer
![]() Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Gem State
Posts: 9,280
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#6 (permalink) |
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way into it
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 173
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room temperature
chile en nogada is supposed to be served at room temperature. The chile is cooked and then stuffed after it cools to handling temperature. The sauce is made before and is at room temperature. The sauce is poured over the chile and pomegranite seeds sprinkled on top
(Hint: To sprinkle pomegranite seeds, cut the pomegranite in half. Hold one half over the dish and give it a few nice whaks with a wooden spoon. The seeds just pop out onto the dish. This is so easy that those who tried to manually cut them out roll their eyes when this easy method is revealed to them. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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way into it
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 173
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Yes. Peel the walnuts.
The brown skin on the walnuts is very bitter, and changes the taste of the sauce. Boil the walnuts for 30 seconds or so, drain them and the skin should just rub off between your rubbing hands.
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#10 (permalink) |
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way into it
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 249
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peeling walnuts
In Puebla, home of chiles en nogada, you can buy your walnuts already peeled. Good cooks say the dish is best made in August because that is when the new crop of walnuts is in. I saw that the nuts were "pecans" in the English menu at El Trapiche, but thought that it was an error in translation. Guess not! But now that I've tried the pecans, I like them too. The sauce is not as white as when made with peeled walnuts, of course.
Seeing how food sits "out" in Mexican homes makes me a bit nervous...we made the picadillo filling the night before. It was cooked in a cazuela (earthenware pot) on top of the stove, the ingredients added in a certain order, and it was considered important never to stir the dish, but to just push the mixture around a bit as each new ingredient was added. Then it just sat on the stove. The peppers were roasted, then stuffed, battered and fried that morning. The walnut sauce was made just before serving. Serving chiles en nogada was a big event, one that called for the lace tablecloth and at least one grandmother in attendance! |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Chupacabras Whisperer
![]() Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Gem State
Posts: 9,280
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What a great tip for the pomegranate seeds; even for when they are being eaten by themselves. I usually won't buy them because they are such a pain to peel. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Nutty Peep
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Mexico City, Mexico
Posts: 4,400
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