When I was there a couple of years back (2002?), we did a Jungle Jeep tour. Every group received their own Geo Metro Jeep. I drove my mom, sister, and the group photographer. Funny, they didn't even ask me if I had a driver's license. As a first time driver in Mexico, I can honestly say it was a wild ride!
Anyway, it was a really interesting tour as went to Aktun Chen, which is an underground cave system. We learned a great deal of information about the flora and fauna of the Yucutan. http://www.aktunchen.com/
We then drove through the jungle to a Mayan Village and were lead on a tour around the village to see how self sufficient the people were. We were then treated to the most wonderful lunch prepared and cooked for us in the home of one of the villagers. They even let me help make the guacamole. I think it was the best meal we had while we were there. The tour ended with a dip into a Cenote.
I wrote a detailed 'Trip Diary' if you are interested in learning more. Just do a search under my name and look for 'Trip Diary'. I think I split it out in 6 parts.
Edited to add: I just re-read your title and realized you are looking for a non-touristy trip. Even though this was a tour, I didn't feel I had been "taken for a ride". It was very educational. You can visit Aktun Chen on your own.
Last edited by lolabella; 02-07-2006 at 10:08 AM..