Trip Report - Izamal's Vaqueria - Dec 1

Dianita · 12-08-2007

It is said that Izamal is the most beautiful town in the Yucatan and anyone who would dispute that claim obviously has never been there. The town is very old, perhaps the oldest town on the peninsula, an important town in the Mayan world. The Spaniards built a magnificent Convent, Monastery and Church on the remains of a Mayan pyramid. One legend says that the Spanish destroyed part of the pyramid but kept the steps so the Maya would always remember who had conquered them after they were converted to Catholicism. El Convento dominates the town, it's high steeples and dozens of arches that surround it's large courtyard is a gathering place for everyone. Young lovers steal kisses in secluded corners, children run giggling near the statue of Pope John Paul and a student pulls out a backpack to lean on while finding a comfortable spot on the grass to read. The convent is painted gold, with white edging on the arches (the Papal colours). In 1993 Pope John Paul was planning to visit Mexico and was asked where he wanted to visit. His reply was "Izamal". When the townspeople heard of the great honour he would bestow on them, they painted their houses gold to match the convent. The cobblestone streets, the black colonial streets lamps and the horse and carriage buggies that serve as "taxis" lend an unforgettable charm to Izamal. It's people are proud of their heritage, and an older man, a tinsmith, told me about the Vaqueria in his shop with evident excitement on the Saturday morning. While most people in Izamal speak Spanish or Maya (more likely), they are so kind to visitors and trip to help on every occasion. I stood at the small doorway underneath a sign in a residential neighbourhood that read "Pollo Asado". I was debating if i wanted to try home cooking, an older man thinking I was confused gestured for me to come in and said in a loud voice "CHEEEKEEEN", and in seconds someone had handed me a drumstick to give it a taste. It was the best chicken I've eaten in years, the juice dripping down to my chin, costing about 25 pesos for half a chicken and the fixings. A feast of kindness and pollo asado. On this trip I was able to spend some time with Don Antonio, in his early 70's, the most famous storyteller who told me of the many legends surrounding the town. He told me how Izamal had changed from the days of his youth and lamented the noise in town now that there were a few cars and motorcycles. There is a museum near the convent and one of the artifacts are newspaper articles from the 50's about Izamal's champion baseball players. The townspeople are kind, helpful and quick with a smile, as pass them on the street or in the square. My trip to Izamal last week fwas for a very special event, the annual Vaqueria or dance festival. This year's event was a Mega-Vaqueria with 1,000 dancers in Mayan dress coming from towns around the Yucatan and even as far away as Argentina. This was the start of the many festivites to honor the Virgin Mary, the patron of the Town culminating on her feast day Dec. 8th. The Vaqueria doesn't start until all the dancers have arrived from every destination so a siesta on Saturday afternoon is a good idea. Around 11PM, everyone had arrived and the time was right. The long street in front of the Palacio Municipal was closed off and a band played on a raised stage at one end. Small wooden chairs where laid out in rows on each side of the street, and one side had an extra level with a railing where more spectators waited. As I walked through the town towards the town square, every house was dark and silent, the whole town was waiting for the Vaqueria. Eventually a large procession of dancers, women in spectacular huipils, beautiful embroidery, gold threads, beautiful hair ornaments marched forward. Beside them, their partners, every man in while pants, shirt and the traditional white straw hat. They made their way to the dance area and when the last couple had stepped onto the street to join the dozens of other couples, the music picked up. There was a sea of colour with whirling dancers, now and then a quick glimpse of a white straw hat or a woman's elaborate headdress. Everyone leaned forward to see the dancing, the excitement in everyone. Earlier in the evening, some small children also wearing traditional Mayan dress had danced with their parents in the street, a small two year old girl joyfully jumping and running the length of the street, while a solemn young boy, perhaps 6 or 7 years old, removed his hat to salute his mother before he began the steps he knew so well. It was a night that they invested the word "Fiesta" for. Later, fireworks were set off, and this is a small town after all so while some of those big burning embers and pieces rained down on the crowd, it just added an extra element of excitement and what was left of the outburst, still glowed high and colourful above the convent's high walls across the square. Local vendors had set up small booths on the outskirts of the square to sell ice cream and pop and beer, as well as medals and rosaries. While the party was still going strong, I decided to call it a night sometime around 1AM or so but the locals didn't turn in until 5AM, and the following morning a quiet hush covered the town.

The following afternoon an event was being held in the church and young girls (perhaps 10 or 12 years of age) were attending an event and wearing long beautiful gowns. Later, one of them came out into the courtyard surrounded by her family (in Mayan dress) and 4 or 5 white doves held in a small cage were handed to her to release, one at a time. While I don't know the exact significance of the event, it was a privilege to be allowed to witness it.

Izamal has many pyramids, about 7 major ones on the streets of the town. One of the legends says that the Spanish directed the Mayan architects who built El Convento that the crucifix at the top of the convent's steeple had to be higher than the last step on Kinich Kak Mo, a major pyramid a couple of blocks away. In what is perhaps an optical illusion, Kinich appears lower when you are on the convent steps but if you go to the pyramid, it looks as if you are looking down at the convent.

On my last evening in Izamal, a horse and buggy took me back to Macan Che, a B&B where I stay, to it's beautiful gardens, the hammock on my front porch and the crickets chirping in the quiet evenings. Only a block away from home, the sun had just set and the deep blue sky glowed behind the large pyramid, the clomp, clomp, clomp of the horses' hoofs on the stones making me feel that I had stepped back in time.

Izamal is southeast of Merida and can be reached by car or via bus from Cancun (about 6 hours)

lolabella · 12-08-2007

Your words paint a beautiful picture of your visit to this town. I know you have a camera

Did you take any photos?

Sol · 12-08-2007

I have heard of Izamal. I wish that we had time to check it out during our trip. We'll make an attempt to at least go by there for a few hours.

JAH · 12-08-2007

Izamal is indeed delightful. If you go, don't miss the carriage ride. We did it in the evening and loved it. But Izamal is not 6 hours from Cancun. It's about 45 minutes northwest of Valladolid, making it about a 3 hour trip.

**Susie Q Roo** · 12-08-2007

We loved Izamal. It was our first stop on this trip.

JAH · 12-08-2007

Hey, Susie! Did I catch a glimpse of you in Valladolid the end of last week? If not, there was someone there who looked just like you, and she was eating with someone who looked just like Babaloo

TravelPDC · 12-08-2007

Thank you for the beautiful trip report which took me to a virtual tour of Izamal and the fiesta.

**Susie Q Roo** · 12-09-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAH

Hey, Susie! Did I catch a glimpse of you in Valladolid the end of last week? If not, there was someone there who looked just like you, and she was eating with someone who looked just like Babaloo

Well, you should have said hello. Even if it wasn't us! Of course, they might have thought you were nuts, but...

I wish we had been in Valladolid last week and it would have been nice to finally meet you if we had been but, unfortunately, we weren't.

MartyC · 12-09-2007

Wow. Just wow.

Yucatanned · 12-09-2007

This thread was way to good to fade into archives. This is the Mexico I want to experience on my next trip to the Yucatan! Not a Starbucks or McDonalds in site!!

Take the road least traveled and You will find the real beauty!! P.S.- Read Susie Q's report!!!!

Dianita · 12-09-2007

Izamal is may be faster by your own vehicle but by bus it is 6 hours from Canucun and at least 2-3 from Vallalodid. Since they stop at every crossroads and hamlet, it extends the trip. I have posted a few photos on the Multimedia tab under my Member photo site.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAH

Izamal is indeed delightful. If you go, don't miss the carriage ride. We did it in the evening and loved it. But Izamal is not 6 hours from Cancun. It's about 45 minutes northwest of Valladolid, making it about a 3 hour trip.

redhed · 12-09-2007

Thanks for the memories.....

I spent a day in Izamal, travelling with locals from Merida on a 2nd class bus. I loved every minute of that bus ride...the people were so kind and humble.

The town is amazing......we encountered no one who spoke English, but somehow it didn't matter.

My favourite memory is sitting on a park bench in front of the cathedral while my friend was off picture taking. It was so peaceful. Suddenly the church bells were ringing and a funeral procession started down the front stairs of the church carrying a casket laiden with flowers. All of the congregation followed the casket and they walked way down the street as far as I could see. Very quiet.......such respect.

A most memorable day.

catnhat · 12-09-2007

Dianita a wonderful read....

hooshootoo · 12-10-2007

Susie Q Roo has got the definitive signature for Yucatan: OMG I really live here!
On occasion, while sitting in the shade at my favorite sidewalk cafe, I have been known to lean over and whisper to my lunch companion "We live here, you know." It is just the most delicious feeling in the world to be able to say those words! I write the News and Events columns on Yucatan Living and never run out of magical things to see and do for both expats and tourists.

monte · 12-10-2007

Beautiful report, as I read it I felt like I was there. Thank you for sharing a wonderful experience with us

12-08-2007	#1 (permalink)
Dianita reposado Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Kingston, Ontario/Florida Keys/Playa Posts: 1,118	Trip Report - Izamal's Vaqueria - Dec 1 It is said that Izamal is the most beautiful town in the Yucatan and anyone who would dispute that claim obviously has never been there. The town is very old, perhaps the oldest town on the peninsula, an important town in the Mayan world. The Spaniards built a magnificent Convent, Monastery and Church on the remains of a Mayan pyramid. One legend says that the Spanish destroyed part of the pyramid but kept the steps so the Maya would always remember who had conquered them after they were converted to Catholicism. El Convento dominates the town, it's high steeples and dozens of arches that surround it's large courtyard is a gathering place for everyone. Young lovers steal kisses in secluded corners, children run giggling near the statue of Pope John Paul and a student pulls out a backpack to lean on while finding a comfortable spot on the grass to read. The convent is painted gold, with white edging on the arches (the Papal colours). In 1993 Pope John Paul was planning to visit Mexico and was asked where he wanted to visit. His reply was "Izamal". When the townspeople heard of the great honour he would bestow on them, they painted their houses gold to match the convent. The cobblestone streets, the black colonial streets lamps and the horse and carriage buggies that serve as "taxis" lend an unforgettable charm to Izamal. It's people are proud of their heritage, and an older man, a tinsmith, told me about the Vaqueria in his shop with evident excitement on the Saturday morning. While most people in Izamal speak Spanish or Maya (more likely), they are so kind to visitors and trip to help on every occasion. I stood at the small doorway underneath a sign in a residential neighbourhood that read "Pollo Asado". I was debating if i wanted to try home cooking, an older man thinking I was confused gestured for me to come in and said in a loud voice "CHEEEKEEEN", and in seconds someone had handed me a drumstick to give it a taste. It was the best chicken I've eaten in years, the juice dripping down to my chin, costing about 25 pesos for half a chicken and the fixings. A feast of kindness and pollo asado. On this trip I was able to spend some time with Don Antonio, in his early 70's, the most famous storyteller who told me of the many legends surrounding the town. He told me how Izamal had changed from the days of his youth and lamented the noise in town now that there were a few cars and motorcycles. There is a museum near the convent and one of the artifacts are newspaper articles from the 50's about Izamal's champion baseball players. The townspeople are kind, helpful and quick with a smile, as pass them on the street or in the square. My trip to Izamal last week fwas for a very special event, the annual Vaqueria or dance festival. This year's event was a Mega-Vaqueria with 1,000 dancers in Mayan dress coming from towns around the Yucatan and even as far away as Argentina. This was the start of the many festivites to honor the Virgin Mary, the patron of the Town culminating on her feast day Dec. 8th. The Vaqueria doesn't start until all the dancers have arrived from every destination so a siesta on Saturday afternoon is a good idea. Around 11PM, everyone had arrived and the time was right. The long street in front of the Palacio Municipal was closed off and a band played on a raised stage at one end. Small wooden chairs where laid out in rows on each side of the street, and one side had an extra level with a railing where more spectators waited. As I walked through the town towards the town square, every house was dark and silent, the whole town was waiting for the Vaqueria. Eventually a large procession of dancers, women in spectacular huipils, beautiful embroidery, gold threads, beautiful hair ornaments marched forward. Beside them, their partners, every man in while pants, shirt and the traditional white straw hat. They made their way to the dance area and when the last couple had stepped onto the street to join the dozens of other couples, the music picked up. There was a sea of colour with whirling dancers, now and then a quick glimpse of a white straw hat or a woman's elaborate headdress. Everyone leaned forward to see the dancing, the excitement in everyone. Earlier in the evening, some small children also wearing traditional Mayan dress had danced with their parents in the street, a small two year old girl joyfully jumping and running the length of the street, while a solemn young boy, perhaps 6 or 7 years old, removed his hat to salute his mother before he began the steps he knew so well. It was a night that they invested the word "Fiesta" for. Later, fireworks were set off, and this is a small town after all so while some of those big burning embers and pieces rained down on the crowd, it just added an extra element of excitement and what was left of the outburst, still glowed high and colourful above the convent's high walls across the square. Local vendors had set up small booths on the outskirts of the square to sell ice cream and pop and beer, as well as medals and rosaries. While the party was still going strong, I decided to call it a night sometime around 1AM or so but the locals didn't turn in until 5AM, and the following morning a quiet hush covered the town. The following afternoon an event was being held in the church and young girls (perhaps 10 or 12 years of age) were attending an event and wearing long beautiful gowns. Later, one of them came out into the courtyard surrounded by her family (in Mayan dress) and 4 or 5 white doves held in a small cage were handed to her to release, one at a time. While I don't know the exact significance of the event, it was a privilege to be allowed to witness it. Izamal has many pyramids, about 7 major ones on the streets of the town. One of the legends says that the Spanish directed the Mayan architects who built El Convento that the crucifix at the top of the convent's steeple had to be higher than the last step on Kinich Kak Mo, a major pyramid a couple of blocks away. In what is perhaps an optical illusion, Kinich appears lower when you are on the convent steps but if you go to the pyramid, it looks as if you are looking down at the convent. On my last evening in Izamal, a horse and buggy took me back to Macan Che, a B&B where I stay, to it's beautiful gardens, the hammock on my front porch and the crickets chirping in the quiet evenings. Only a block away from home, the sun had just set and the deep blue sky glowed behind the large pyramid, the clomp, clomp, clomp of the horses' hoofs on the stones making me feel that I had stepped back in time. Izamal is southeast of Merida and can be reached by car or via bus from Cancun (about 6 hours) __________________ Dianita Live, live, live. Life is a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death. Rosalind Russell, "Auntie Mame" 1958

12-09-2007	#10 (permalink)
Yucatanned reposado Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Gaylord Michigan Posts: 1,085	This thread was way to good to fade into archives. This is the Mexico I want to experience on my next trip to the Yucatan! Not a Starbucks or McDonalds in site!! Take the road least traveled and You will find the real beauty!! P.S.- Read Susie Q's report!!!! Last edited by Yucatanned; 12-09-2007 at 08:32 AM..

12-10-2007	#14 (permalink)
hooshootoo lost on fifth Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Louisiana Posts: 16	Best Signature Susie Q Roo has got the definitive signature for Yucatan: OMG I really live here! On occasion, while sitting in the shade at my favorite sidewalk cafe, I have been known to lean over and whisper to my lunch companion "We live here, you know." It is just the most delicious feeling in the world to be able to say those words! I write the News and Events columns on Yucatan Living and never run out of magical things to see and do for both expats and tourists.

12-08-2007	#2 (permalink)
lolabella añejo Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: One foot in WI, the other in PDC Posts: 6,194	Your words paint a beautiful picture of your visit to this town. I know you have a camera Did you take any photos?

12-08-2007	#3 (permalink)
Sol añejo Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: The Gem State Posts: 16,176	I have heard of Izamal. I wish that we had time to check it out during our trip. We'll make an attempt to at least go by there for a few hours.

12-08-2007	#4 (permalink)
JAH reposado Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,326	Izamal is indeed delightful. If you go, don't miss the carriage ride. We did it in the evening and loved it. But Izamal is not 6 hours from Cancun. It's about 45 minutes northwest of Valladolid, making it about a 3 hour trip.

12-08-2007	#5 (permalink)
Susie Q Roo Critter Magnet Join Date: May 2003 Location: Q Roo Posts: 16,085	We loved Izamal. It was our first stop on this trip.

12-08-2007	#6 (permalink)
JAH reposado Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,326	Hey, Susie! Did I catch a glimpse of you in Valladolid the end of last week? If not, there was someone there who looked just like you, and she was eating with someone who looked just like Babaloo

12-08-2007	#7 (permalink)
TravelPDC toe in water Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 53	Thank you for the beautiful trip report which took me to a virtual tour of Izamal and the fiesta.

12-09-2007	#9 (permalink)
MartyC reposado Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,039	Wow. Just wow.

12-09-2007	#12 (permalink)
redhed beachaholic Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Ottawa Valley Posts: 410	Thanks for the memories..... I spent a day in Izamal, travelling with locals from Merida on a 2nd class bus. I loved every minute of that bus ride...the people were so kind and humble. The town is amazing......we encountered no one who spoke English, but somehow it didn't matter. My favourite memory is sitting on a park bench in front of the cathedral while my friend was off picture taking. It was so peaceful. Suddenly the church bells were ringing and a funeral procession started down the front stairs of the church carrying a casket laiden with flowers. All of the congregation followed the casket and they walked way down the street as far as I could see. Very quiet.......such respect. A most memorable day.

12-09-2007	#13 (permalink)
catnhat life=playa Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 874	Dianita a wonderful read....

12-10-2007	#15 (permalink)
monte añejo Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: dallas Posts: 12,805	Beautiful report, as I read it I felt like I was there. Thank you for sharing a wonderful experience with us

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