Horas de comer

[JAH]

It has been requested that I start a thread addressing the topic of mealtimes in Mexico. More to the point I guess would be how does one know when the various smaller establishments are open for business. Although I run across a closed restaurant occasionally, it has only caused me to shrug my shoulders and move on. That's probably easier for me because I know I'll be back in the near future to give it another try. When a person is in the area just now and then, it is definitely more frustrating.

I think a good place to start is with a discussion of when the people of Mexico traditionally eat their meals. It sort of goes like this:

Early morning - Coffee and pan dulce

Mid morning - full breakfast

Around 2 or 3pm - la comida - the main meal of the day, most always eaten at home with the family

7 to 9pm - la cena -- tacos, tostadas, etc., often eaten out

It isn't always like this, and not all regions follow this, but it is fairly widespread. When you arrive in Mexico, the sooner you fall into this rhythm, the better off you'll be. In fact, my husband and I find ourselves trying to do it here in the States. We find we vastly prefer it over our usual 3 rigid meals a day.

Many of the changarros that are mentioned on this forum and other places on this site open and close around this kind of schedule. There are others that are only open in the evening when the business is better. The clue for the evening meal is to not arrive too early.

So this is a start. Hopefully many of you will have additional words of wisdom.

[roni]

This is very similar to the eating schedule when we lived in Brazil. Coffee and bread early in the morning (bakeries took hot paozinhos out of the oven at 6:00 am and between 2:30 and 3:00 pm). Fruit and snack mid-morning, big lunchtime meal around 1-2, another break and coffee around 5:00 and dinner, another big meal around 8-9.

Ron

[mindz]

What happened here?

We set out looking for good local comida corrida at about 3:30 on a Sunday afternoon. The first place we stopped, which had been recommended to us, was not even open. We wandered up towards 30th and stopped at El Paisano, near Juarez, because of the variety of dishes painted on the wall.

Okay, we don't speak much Spanish, but were hoping for a little guidance. Our waiter asked us what we wanted to drink (We've learned that!), and with our beers brought us two forks with ten saucer-sized plates of appetizers: mango with lime and chili, beets, pickled carrots, cochinita pibil, tongue, gizzards (I think)...totopos, and salsa. Hmm, we thought, he will be back to ask us what we want for a main course. But as we finished a plate, he brought more of the same appetizer.

Other customers received the same as they sat down...though I noticed that some tables were getting more substantial dishes instead: sopa de fideos, for example.

No printed menu, of course. And while it was good and certainly cheap, and tasty--no complaints there. But we thought that at "dinner time" we would be offered a real meal at some point.

Can someome please explain what we experienced? It's a custom we never ran across before.

[Jesus]

Sound like you arived at a Cantina, and as you asked for the beers, they offered you the appetizers to make company to your drinks. You don't mention how much was it. I guess that they charged you for the beers only (a higher price than other places but with the "food" included).

It was 50 pesos for four beers, plus the appetizers. (how do you say appetizers en Espanol?) We thought that was a pretty good deal--delicious, but not very filling. It was interesting, the plates were sitting at the counter, so when a customer arrived they could be served immediately.

Thanks for your insight, Jesus...now, can you steer us to a good spot for mid-afternoon comida corrida for our next trip? :wink:

I'm still confused; Dona Mary and El Fogon are recommended as good restaurants for comida corrida but they don't open until night. Isn't that time for cena, a light meal?

[mindz]

That is my post above, i forgot to log in :oops:

[dougie46]

Mindz,
Now this is an interesting topic..I have found through my travels throughout Mexico, that the "traditional" meals, and times for them, have tended to change as to the needs of the people and their jobs...JAH, as always, has nailed the "local" aspects to a tee..
What we find now, is a mix of cultures for the most part. I am not sure where you got such a great variance of food for your comida, but wish I had found something like that in PDC. I have had many of these "lunches" in Mexico, but never found the variety you mention, while in PDC.
I am not sure where the info came from about comida at El Fogon, but we understood it to be an "evening" eating place, which in our mind, is hard to beat!!!
It is hard for most of us that are used to our 3 meal a day atmosphere, to deal with the "local" way of eaing, so, if you want to really experience the food as the locals have it...you have to get off the beaten path, and find the restaurants that the locals frequent...and at the times they eat...It certainly doesn't match our times, and any time spent in their atmosphere will show you why they eat when, and how they do...
The foods we ate in PDC were great, with some of the most "authentic" foods I have eaten in Mexico...As long as you are willing to look for them...They aren't on fifth!!! OK, the bus depot area not withstanding!!!
Dougie

[james]

We set out looking for good local comida corrida at about 3:30 on a Sunday afternoon.

That's a little late for comida corrida. It's really a 1-3pm type thing in most cases.

[JAH]

Mindz, appetizer in Spanish is 'entrada' from the verb entrar - to enter. But it sounds to me like you had more of a botanas or tapas experience. As far as what to ask for if you want more than snack items, you could try asking for a menu - una carta. The problem is that many of these places don't have a printed menu. They'll just rattle it off to you orally, and you'll wish you'd never asked.

You could also say, "Buscamos la comida corrida" - We are looking for the daily special or set menu. It's always interesting to see where that takes you.

Or you could ask, "Que hay de comer?" - What's to eat? That presumes that you will understand the answer and be able to respond.

In regards to El Fogon, there is a variety of things to eat there -- large meals or tacos al pastor and any number of things in between. Sometimes we do the American thing and eat soup and quesadillas in the middle of the afternoon so that we can pig out at Fogon around 8pm.

[mindz]

I'm getting braver with Spanish!

Exploring restaurants is one of my favorite pastimes in Playa. Las trip I pledged not to eat anywhere I'd eaten before--tried Tango Taco, Idea Pasta, El Paisano--but friends wanted to eat at Glass Bar, and we just couldn't skip El Pastorcito or El Oasis...then there's the kilo of tortillas and package of Oaxacan cheese that we bought to make quesadillas "at home..." too many delicious options, not enough time!

[Jesus]

Originally posted by "mindz"

It was 50 pesos for four beers, plus the appetizers. (how do you say appetizers en Espanol?) We thought that was a pretty good deal--delicious, but not very filling. It was interesting, the plates were sitting at the counter, so when a customer arrived they could be served immediately.

I still do sounds like a Cantina, and with those prices it won't be out of range.
In some Cantinas they have special dishes depending on the day of the week, others change depending on the specialty of the house or the time of day. In general we would say "antojitos" or most commonly "botana" (snack) as they are not intended to be a "real" meal, just some very tasty food to make company to your drinks.

Originally posted by "mindz"

Thanks for your insight, Jesus...now, can you steer us to a good spot for mid-afternoon comida corrida for our next trip? :wink:

Mmmh, sorry, can't help in this one, I live in Mexico city and in my first and only visit I didn't went around town too much (my breakfast was at the tacos by the bus station, lunch and dinner close to my hotel ). Next time I'm in Playa I will give a try at some of the sites mentioned in this forum to give a "local" report. Meanwhile we need to send James and Anna in this errand.
And also, if you voluntaire in your next trip, I would recomend bringing a small English-Spanish dictionary, so the waiter can write the specialties available for you to translate.

[JAH]

Here is a list of places I intend to try in the future. I have gleaned these nuggets mostly from posts on this site and a few from other places:

New little restaurant in Playa - we tried this one on our last trip called El Olivo, a Spanish Tapas Bar it's on 10th & 6 bis. Cute little place, interesting menu. Courtesy of Laura MapChick

Check out the tacos de carne con guisados on 10th between 2nd and 4th.

The place for the best tacos in town is La Carreta on 30th Ave at 28th street. Homemade tortillas and really tasty meats.

Try Makech, right in the tourist zone on 1st street south (parallel to Juarez, one block south) near 10th. Pozole on Thursdays. Authentic lunches with rice, beans, main course, and a fresh fruit drink all for about 30 or 35 pesos. Courtesy of Jame on the playadelcarmeninfo forum

Las Cacerolas between 4th and 6th on 15th ave. Yummy homemade comida corrida.

Chuchi's for breakfast (1st betw. 12 & 16)-crepes with nutella and fruit - decadent! Courtesy of Mindz

Taqueria El Pastorcito on 30th Avenue, one block north of Constitutiones on the west side of the street. They open around nightfall and specialize in Tacos el Pastor and Tacos Arrachera. We also had some GREAT marinated sweet onions that were blackened on the grill. For a party of seven with two rounds of beer and a full sampling of food, our tab was less than $30. Courtesy of Jimmy in MN

My absolute favorite on the Comida Corrida scene is La Casa de Piedra (The Stonehouse). It's way off La Ruta Turista, on Avenida 35 between Calle 30 and 32. The facade is made of stones, so you'll spot it. They have very tasty food estilo Muy Mexicano. They often have lentil soup for starters, which is almost enough in itself, and some great crispy Flautas de pollo. Courtesy of Anna on the playadelcarmeninfo forum

There’s a great little Cuban restaurant we discovered in PDC at Xmas time(they had just opened). It's right next door to El Pastorcito Taqueria on 30th Avenue on the same side of the street (west side), closer to Constituyentes (across the street from DAC Fruit Market). It's called El Rincon Latino and serves inexpensive authentic Cuban dishes in a really cozy atmosphere. My picky kids ate everything on their plate, so I consider that a thumbs up regarding the food. They don't have a liquor license, but they serve a sugar cane drink (have a cane press) and carbonated beverages. One of the PDC locals I know who regularly travels to Cuba, really enjoyed the place and gave it high marks. Courtesy of Jimmy in MN

El Cejas has opened a big palapa restaurant between 24th and 26st Streets between 25th and 30th. They are no strangers to this business. Their original restaurant in the market "Mercado 28" in Cancun has been open for about 14 years. We had caldo de camaron and pargo a la Veracruzana yesterday and it was quite tasty. Look for ceviche, cocteles, whole fish, fillets, shrimp and seafood soups. BTW, El Cejas is the owner's nickname which makes fun of his big, bushy eyebrows. Courtesy
of James on the playadelcarmeninfo board

There is a place called Los Originales on 24th Street and 30th Avenue. It appears to be strictly locals. They make the tastiest tacos dorados I have ever had. The tacos are made of shredded chicken and the tortilla is rolled up and deep-fried. The tacos are served with lettuce, onions, avocado and crema on top. A serving of three tacos costs a mere $29 pesos. They are worth the visit. Courtesy of Ynaq on the playadelcarmeninfo board

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