Collectivos to Cenotes?

jbird · 01-20-2004

My wife and I will be visiting in early February on a low budget and we can't drive stick! (no automatic rentals available from Barcelo) I am very excited about spending a day visiting some cenotes and we don't mind walking too far but not sure how difficult it will be to catch a ride back.

For example, I'm especially interested in el Gran Cenote but I'm not even sure collectivos or buses go on that road. Anyone have advice or suggestions for getting off the beaten trail? Scooters in Tulum?

**james** · 01-20-2004

If you are staying at Barcelo, you can just cross the highway and there are 13 cenotes right there (within Sistema Ponderosa).

wleblanc · 01-20-2004

We took the collectivo to the town of Tulum and then took a taxi to Gran Cenote. The taxi charged us 40 pesos to take us in. On the way back the attendant gave us a ride back to Tulum. Go early, beat the crowds, it's really amazing to have the whole place to yourselves.

jbird · 01-20-2004

Thanks to you both. I was thinking of the taxi and that sounds like the best way. I'm also going to try the Chikin Ha and the others across the street, but I read a post from James that got me all hyped up for Gran Cenote. I'm sure they'll all nock me flat once I get there!

**james** · 01-20-2004

a couple comments:
first, that sounds like a real gringo price of 40 pesos to Grand Cenote from the town of Tulum, but I don't often take taxis in Tulum. If you are headed over there, Calavera (Temple of Doom) is also worth a look. You used to need to know which path to take into the jungle, but now there's a sign and entrance fee.

second, I believe Chikin Ha is exclusively used by Alltournative now. They've installed a tirolesa (a zip line) through the trees. Gavin of Alltournative has invited me out to zip away on it, but I haven't taken him up on it yet. If so, you can still get there, you just need to enter El Eden cenote, take a stage bottle with you and head upstream on the River Run. Drop your stage bottle at the jump that takes you to the Wizard's Den (very cool room!) and continue upstream until you surface at Xtabay (flowing hair in Mayan) cenote. Get out of the water and walk the pathway and you'll find Chikin Ha (Water from the West in Maya). It's connected to Xtabay, but there's no space wide enough for a diver through the breakdown area. The line where you left your stage bottle is a circuit that takes you back to El Eden, where you started. There is a really nice halocline effect going downstream. It's like flying over a river and there are some "rapids" where the halocline swirls as it gets turbulent near the cave ceiling. If you take the circuit, make sure you do it safely and swim it backwards first and mark your thirds!

Of course, this is for properly trained cave divers only. I've just included this to share a little insight into what would make a person dive underground.

Steve Gerrard's book on the cenotes (available at the Alma Libre bookstore in Puerto Morelos, ProTec in Playa, and Amazon, I believe, or Google it) is very nice.

Since the cenotes were (and remain) the only source of fresh water in the region, they were visited by the ancient Mayan. You'll find buried ruins if you walk around the trails connecting the cenotes of Sistema Ponderosa, across the street from your resort. (A good walk into the jungle) Some obvious ones are several hundred meters before El Eden, on the right hand side. Inside most of the cenotes are ceramic fragments from broken water vessels. Many also do or did contain bones.

jbird · 01-20-2004

WOW - yup, I'm just a novice diver from Ohio. In fact I wasn't even planning on scuba since my wife doesn't. We were just going to snorkel it. My imagination is running crazy from your descriptions though! It seems I will have to wait til I get there to make some decisions about traveling and which cenotes take priority.

Both my wife and I are good swimmers and can hold our breath long distances. Any suggestions on snorkel cenotes with shorter swim-through passages? Thanks for the incredible descriptions, gives me something to dream about on my own eventually.

wleblanc · 01-20-2004

Yep, we got the gabacho rate (see I'm learning more from you James). There were a couple of taxis outside the new looking supermarket and the driver asked the guy who appeared to be in charge and he said 40 pesos, it just seemed embarrasing to ask for less, yep another gabacho move not wanting to barter....

jbird · 01-20-2004

So I take it the Gran Cenote isn't too far from Tulum if 4 bucks is too expensive. I don't think we'll have a problem with that. But 30 pesos is better still! I'll have to work out some bartering skills en espanol.

...man, after that incredible scuba description I feel my snorkeling experience will be inadequate. :cry:

sanborn1 · 01-20-2004

Can anyone tell me how to pronounce cenote? Is it sin-o-ta, chi-no-ta or something else? Just curious.

**denisea** · 01-20-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by "sanborn1"

Can anyone tell me how to pronounce cenote? Is it sin-o-ta, chi-no-ta or something else? Just curious.

Click here for a previous thread titled "How does one correctly pronounce Cenote?" that answers this question.

**james** · 01-20-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by "jbird"

So I take it the Gran Cenote isn't too far from Tulum

it's in Tulum. About 2.5 kilometers away from the new San Francisco market.

Quote:

Originally posted by "wleblanc"

Yep, we got the gabacho rate (see I'm learning more from you James). There were a couple of taxis outside the new looking supermarket and the driver asked the guy who appeared to be in charge and he said 40 pesos, it just seemed embarrasing to ask for less, yep another gabacho move not wanting to barter....

I know, it's not much of a difference, but it's the dishonesty that gets me.

sanborn1 · 01-20-2004

Ah! Se NOH tay, but more of a teh than a tay and a NOH from the throat. Thanks!

**Anna** · 01-20-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by "jbird"

...man, after that incredible scuba description I feel my snorkeling experience will be inadequate. :cry:

Snorkeling, swimming or even just hanging out by a cenote is a magical and more than adequate experience!

superwally · 01-20-2004

We visited Dos Oyos (two eyes) cenote last week on vacation when we were in the area. It is just a kilometer south of the entrance to Xel-ha park (like a natural disneyland), but before the entrance to "Hidden Worlds" park. Now we are home and have received 60cm of snow in the last 4 days (blah). Anyway...

We took a collectivo to the entrance for 10 pesos each from our AI located 15 min south of PDC. From there, it is 2.5km inland from the highway on a rough, but ok road. We chose to hike in for exercise and enjoyment, but various people recommended either taxi, renting a car (and planning to visit 4 or more cenotes in a day), and we even saw a mountain biker, and those annoying groups on rental quads atvs passing by. WHile hiking in we saw yellow birds, signs for other cenotes/caves in the jungle, and a few thick lines of ants across the road (we're told the signal rain is coming).

There are two beautiful cenotes near each other. One is larger and leads to the "bat cave" which is spectacular (cavern with stalactites/stalagmites). We were fortunate that a snorkeller with a high-power light offered to guide us into the bat cave, as it is fairly claustraphobic (and dark) to snorkel in without light, but open once you get in (there is a shaft with ladder that you can descend into the cave from the surface and then snorkel around if you like). It wasn't terribly busy here, but it is probably not as wild as zip-lining to some of these newly discovered and remote cenotes. There is a local "restaurant" off the road almost at dos oyos site. We walked in to see; some locals had a very poor little setup; they had two monkeys chained to 2 poles, a leopard cat chained in a cage, and other animals in cages that could not be seen. It was sad and depressing so stay away!!

Entrance fee is 80 pesos per person though (payable before you go down the 2.5km road), but we thought it was reasonable considering it was the only cenote we visited. Gran Cenote would be our second choice. You can get to it right off the highway that leads to Coba i'm told.

We also enjoy getting slightly off the beaten track.
Hope this helps!

jbird · 01-21-2004

Thanks superwally, yes that helps a great deal. I think I've been overplanning and streessing out the details of my trip. But your experience and Anna's comment remind me that I'll be on VACATION! Anywhere we end up in paradise is probably going to be beautiful AND exciting.

It sounds like there are plenty of options for finding adventures off the beaten track (even observing ants crossing the jungle path). I forgot that there's a different attitude down there where the sun is more familiar. I guess I just necesito una cervesa!

01-20-2004	#1 (permalink)
jbird very sparkly Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 38	Collectivos to Cenotes? My wife and I will be visiting in early February on a low budget and we can't drive stick! (no automatic rentals available from Barcelo) I am very excited about spending a day visiting some cenotes and we don't mind walking too far but not sure how difficult it will be to catch a ride back. For example, I'm especially interested in el Gran Cenote but I'm not even sure collectivos or buses go on that road. Anyone have advice or suggestions for getting off the beaten trail? Scooters in Tulum?

01-20-2004	#2 (permalink)
james beach geek admin Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: 10 year Playa resident lost in Kullavik, Sweden Posts: 9,615	If you are staying at Barcelo, you can just cross the highway and there are 13 cenotes right there (within Sistema Ponderosa). __________________ My lovely house is for sale Get your own signature countdown image! Thanks for taking the time to read the announcement!

01-20-2004	#5 (permalink)
james beach geek admin Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: 10 year Playa resident lost in Kullavik, Sweden Posts: 9,615	a couple comments: first, that sounds like a real gringo price of 40 pesos to Grand Cenote from the town of Tulum, but I don't often take taxis in Tulum. If you are headed over there, Calavera (Temple of Doom) is also worth a look. You used to need to know which path to take into the jungle, but now there's a sign and entrance fee. second, I believe Chikin Ha is exclusively used by Alltournative now. They've installed a tirolesa (a zip line) through the trees. Gavin of Alltournative has invited me out to zip away on it, but I haven't taken him up on it yet. If so, you can still get there, you just need to enter El Eden cenote, take a stage bottle with you and head upstream on the River Run. Drop your stage bottle at the jump that takes you to the Wizard's Den (very cool room!) and continue upstream until you surface at Xtabay (flowing hair in Mayan) cenote. Get out of the water and walk the pathway and you'll find Chikin Ha (Water from the West in Maya). It's connected to Xtabay, but there's no space wide enough for a diver through the breakdown area. The line where you left your stage bottle is a circuit that takes you back to El Eden, where you started. There is a really nice halocline effect going downstream. It's like flying over a river and there are some "rapids" where the halocline swirls as it gets turbulent near the cave ceiling. If you take the circuit, make sure you do it safely and swim it backwards first and mark your thirds! Of course, this is for properly trained cave divers only. I've just included this to share a little insight into what would make a person dive underground. Steve Gerrard's book on the cenotes (available at the Alma Libre bookstore in Puerto Morelos, ProTec in Playa, and Amazon, I believe, or Google it) is very nice. Since the cenotes were (and remain) the only source of fresh water in the region, they were visited by the ancient Mayan. You'll find buried ruins if you walk around the trails connecting the cenotes of Sistema Ponderosa, across the street from your resort. (A good walk into the jungle) Some obvious ones are several hundred meters before El Eden, on the right hand side. Inside most of the cenotes are ceramic fragments from broken water vessels. Many also do or did contain bones. __________________ My lovely house is for sale Get your own signature countdown image! Thanks for taking the time to read the announcement!

01-20-2004	#14 (permalink)
superwally lost on fifth Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: London, Canada Posts: 10	dos oyos cenote We visited Dos Oyos (two eyes) cenote last week on vacation when we were in the area. It is just a kilometer south of the entrance to Xel-ha park (like a natural disneyland), but before the entrance to "Hidden Worlds" park. Now we are home and have received 60cm of snow in the last 4 days (blah). Anyway... We took a collectivo to the entrance for 10 pesos each from our AI located 15 min south of PDC. From there, it is 2.5km inland from the highway on a rough, but ok road. We chose to hike in for exercise and enjoyment, but various people recommended either taxi, renting a car (and planning to visit 4 or more cenotes in a day), and we even saw a mountain biker, and those annoying groups on rental quads atvs passing by. WHile hiking in we saw yellow birds, signs for other cenotes/caves in the jungle, and a few thick lines of ants across the road (we're told the signal rain is coming). There are two beautiful cenotes near each other. One is larger and leads to the "bat cave" which is spectacular (cavern with stalactites/stalagmites). We were fortunate that a snorkeller with a high-power light offered to guide us into the bat cave, as it is fairly claustraphobic (and dark) to snorkel in without light, but open once you get in (there is a shaft with ladder that you can descend into the cave from the surface and then snorkel around if you like). It wasn't terribly busy here, but it is probably not as wild as zip-lining to some of these newly discovered and remote cenotes. There is a local "restaurant" off the road almost at dos oyos site. We walked in to see; some locals had a very poor little setup; they had two monkeys chained to 2 poles, a leopard cat chained in a cage, and other animals in cages that could not be seen. It was sad and depressing so stay away!! Entrance fee is 80 pesos per person though (payable before you go down the 2.5km road), but we thought it was reasonable considering it was the only cenote we visited. Gran Cenote would be our second choice. You can get to it right off the highway that leads to Coba i'm told. We also enjoy getting slightly off the beaten track. Hope this helps!

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

01-20-2004	#3 (permalink)
wleblanc into ruins Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 76	We took the collectivo to the town of Tulum and then took a taxi to Gran Cenote. The taxi charged us 40 pesos to take us in. On the way back the attendant gave us a ride back to Tulum. Go early, beat the crowds, it's really amazing to have the whole place to yourselves.

01-20-2004	#4 (permalink)
jbird very sparkly Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 38	Thanks to you both. I was thinking of the taxi and that sounds like the best way. I'm also going to try the Chikin Ha and the others across the street, but I read a post from James that got me all hyped up for Gran Cenote. I'm sure they'll all nock me flat once I get there!

01-20-2004	#6 (permalink)
jbird very sparkly Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 38	WOW - yup, I'm just a novice diver from Ohio. In fact I wasn't even planning on scuba since my wife doesn't. We were just going to snorkel it. My imagination is running crazy from your descriptions though! It seems I will have to wait til I get there to make some decisions about traveling and which cenotes take priority. Both my wife and I are good swimmers and can hold our breath long distances. Any suggestions on snorkel cenotes with shorter swim-through passages? Thanks for the incredible descriptions, gives me something to dream about on my own eventually.

01-20-2004	#7 (permalink)
wleblanc into ruins Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 76	Yep, we got the gabacho rate (see I'm learning more from you James). There were a couple of taxis outside the new looking supermarket and the driver asked the guy who appeared to be in charge and he said 40 pesos, it just seemed embarrasing to ask for less, yep another gabacho move not wanting to barter....

01-20-2004	#8 (permalink)
jbird very sparkly Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 38	So I take it the Gran Cenote isn't too far from Tulum if 4 bucks is too expensive. I don't think we'll have a problem with that. But 30 pesos is better still! I'll have to work out some bartering skills en espanol. ...man, after that incredible scuba description I feel my snorkeling experience will be inadequate. :cry:

01-20-2004	#9 (permalink)
sanborn1 lost on fifth Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 19	Can anyone tell me how to pronounce cenote? Is it sin-o-ta, chi-no-ta or something else? Just curious.

01-20-2004	#12 (permalink)
sanborn1 lost on fifth Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 19	Ah! Se NOH tay, but more of a teh than a tay and a NOH from the throat. Thanks!

01-21-2004	#15 (permalink)
jbird very sparkly Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 38	Thanks superwally, yes that helps a great deal. I think I've been overplanning and streessing out the details of my trip. But your experience and Anna's comment remind me that I'll be on VACATION! Anywhere we end up in paradise is probably going to be beautiful AND exciting. It sounds like there are plenty of options for finding adventures off the beaten track (even observing ants crossing the jungle path). I forgot that there's a different attitude down there where the sun is more familiar. I guess I just necesito una cervesa!

register to remove these adverts