01-14-2012
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#107 (permalink) | ||
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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 .)And yes, we will be going back down south, too.  Quote:
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01-14-2012
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#108 (permalink) |
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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Saturday, December 10th
Goodbye, Playa del Carmen…. how hard it was this morning to think that we were leaving Playa, the several friends we had not seen nearly enough, and knowing we had missed others not seen this time around. It only made us realize that we need to find more time to spend here in the future. But for now… we were excited for what lay ahead.     We didn’t have to leave Fisherman’s until 10 a.m., but Harris had told us last night that they needed to leave Plantation House at 9 due to some shifts in others’ rentals. So we told her that we’d get over there as soon as possible and to just have everything packed and waiting downstairs to load the car, so we could hit the road. Ummm.… that didn’t happen exactly as planned. We packed and left Fisherman’s at 9, stopped at the bank and drove over to Plantation House…. Harris was boiling leftover eggs and cleaning out the fridge and throwing things into bags… we ended up helping cart lots of loose stuff down to the curb and stuffed it all into the car haphazardly until it looked like this when we drove off at 10:00 or so.  There were many pilgrims running and driving along the highway this day, in both directions, striving to arrive at various towns and cities’ churches along the way in advance of the Virgin of Guadeloupe’s feast day on the 12th.   We stopped in Tulum for a Pemex stop and for Paul to find a wide brimmed hat. We ended up at La Nave for a late breakfast before the long ride- we still had about 2 ½ hours to drive to Mahahual. It was nice, and the food was good. Brian had squid, shrimp and fish bruschetta which was interesting…. and we were finally on the road again at the crack of noon.                 At 2:35 we pulled up to the lighthouse north of town. Last year it had seemed an oasis at the end of the coast road from Limones, and we loved the transplanted couple from Mexico City who had been cooking up the catch of the day and engaged us in conversation as we instantly fell in love with this little town. This time the setting was still perfectly incredible… but it appeared abandoned.   We walked around and stretched, and then hello…… someone in the hammock inside the little bar finally stirred, and the new proprietor, “El Nino”, yawned and slowly stood up to greet us and serve us some not-so-cold but still welcomed beers in the swings.   We told El Nino we may be back- after all, Jez had told us last year that this was a good snorkeling spot- but right now we were ready to check into our hotels and relax a little there.  We drove down the road into town and realized that the main road was under construction. We were able to let Harris and Paul off near the Nacional Beach Club then drove a short ways down to Posada de los 40 Canones, where we’d also stayed last year.     I think that Harris and Paul were taken by this sleepy little town the way we were last year. We were all instantly in veg mode, taking everything in stride, completely and utterly relaxed. We had the same room as last year, and felt so glad to finally be back here- we have really been dreaming of this little town since the moment we left last year. And now we were armed with realtor suggestions, just in case, for future reference (thanks, Heather). The difference was that 40 Canones was expanding. No longer did we have a private balcony outside our door- it connected with a whole new wing, just being completed! We absolutely love this hotel, but we would come to love the Nacional Beach Club equally. I actually think we’d love being anywhere, as long as it was in Mahahual.       We wanted to go straight away to Jaime’s place, Nohoch Kay, for tacos, but could not quite make it past the swings at the beachside bar.    We took a second margarita para llevar and strolled up to the Nacional Beach Club to get Harris and Paul, but they were just settling in on the beach with a couple of drinks themselves, and introduced us to their host, Evan. (Paul) ”You’ve got to stop bringing us to these cool places!” Ummm. No.  So we settled there for a bit, sipping our cocktails, watching birds, while the sky turned to multiple shades of pink.       40 Canones  New construction to the right of our room  beachside banos  We tore ourselves away for a very late “lunch” at Nohoch Kay and were lucky enough to find Jaime there and chat about our mutual friends in Playa (Steve wanted me to give Jaime a big hug but I was shy… yet we did trade some stories!)…. I think we might have had some ceviche and perhaps a couple of Jaime’s famous shrimp and fish tacos, but more memorable were his nieces, who were serving us- the “3 B’s”- Bebe, Brenda and Betty (“Boop”). Such nice, pretty, engaging girls- we had a wonderful time with them.  From there we went up on the new upper deck at 40 Canones with a spectacular view of the town and the sea, and then we went over to find Harris and Paul at their place. We went into the hotel’s little bar/restaurant and started in on Cuba Libres and some great conversation with Evan. It was clear that Evan and his fianceé loved Ron (roni) and Kathy, who had been there just a few short weeks beforehand. (They had also recommended their particular room to Harris and Paul, who loved it equally, as far as I could gather). And what’s not to love? I thought the ceiling was wayyyyy cool.    Eventually we left to go to dinner at 100% Agave, a restaurant we’d been to last year at Jez’ suggestion, and again we were not disappointed- although at this point we were not too fussy, and a little buzzed. Fernando was a great host. Harris got a kick at the door being locked behind us after we sat down (it was late).   Oh my, who did this remind us of?  The waitress brought us complimentary glasses of fresh squeezed pink grapefruit juice with vodka, and the Brian ordered a chelada, Paul a Montejo, and Harris and I had more grapefruit/vodka drinks. I wasn’t so hungry before, but now I craved fish. I ordered mero filet cooked in tin foil with peppers and onions and cheese that was soooo tender and tasty (and only 75 pesos), and Brian had a pork torta for just 35 pesos. Harris and Paul were satisfied with their drinks and the muy caliente salsas that were served, but I think they had filled up at Jaime’s earlier. Beers were just 15 pesos, mixed drinks 40. After dinner we were served tequila and coffee drinks, gratis. We didn’t see the barrel of house tequila from last year, but everything was just great, and Fernando was a gracious host.   Afterward, we walked home accompanied by a couple of friendly local dogs, under a perfectly full moon.  sleepy local   
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My last few trip reports- Around the Roo in 16 Days The Alux & the Shaman Rollin' on the Riviera Playa by Way of Coz Bringing Ixchel Home- our Mexican puppy adoption! Last edited by caramba; 01-14-2012 at 10:26 AM.. |
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01-14-2012
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#109 (permalink) |
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añejo
 Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Gem State
Posts: 16,176
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I don't know when I will be back to Playa but when I return, but for sure I'll head to Mahahual and spend some time there. It's worth the trip.
I've told you this before, but I love how Brian and you have always rented a car to go exploring. It's because of you that I got brave enough to rent a car so Dave and I could drive to Palenque and all over the Yucatan Peninsula. I'll do it again. I love the picture of the pilgrims. I've seen these vehicles in Mexico City. They are so cool. Thank you for taking the time to post your wonderful pictures! |
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01-14-2012
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#110 (permalink) |
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añejo
 Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 59,642
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Very nice!!
We too will be back to Mahahual and points south. We rented a car on our first trip to Playa, for a run down for 3 nights in Tulum and were very glad we had it on there. This last trip was the first once since that we had rented a car. |
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01-15-2012
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#111 (permalink) | ||
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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Quote:
And I'm glad that I may have had anything to do with you renting a car! We keep thinking we'll skip the car and travel by bus, etc., but we just love having a car at our disposal, to pick up and go wherever and whenever we want. I would soooo love to get to Palenque and so many other places down there. Sometime we will.Since we always seem to travel around our anniversary (the day before the feast day), seeing the pilgrims is always part of our trip. I know some of my pictures are not of the best quality, but I think they help tell the story, anyway. Quote:
We didn't rent a car our first trip to Playa, and had never rented one in other parts of Mexico, but I had helped drive the 14 hours from Tucson to Cosala (Sinaloa) once and remembered the roads were very good (but you had to watch for stray animals in the road). Brian has driven us all over Jamaica and I told him if he can drive in Jamaica he can surely drive in Mexico! So we rented a car our second time here and never looked back. It gives us a lot of freedom if and when we choose to use it- if we are going to tie one on, we don't drive, obviously.
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01-15-2012
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#112 (permalink) |
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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Sunday, December 11th
Today was our 15th wedding anniversary, and we felt a little lazy, sleeping in til after 7. It was a little cloudy and cool this morning, but no worries, we were on no schedule and would just see what the day would bring…. maybe a little snorkeling later on, but no doubt a little exploring.  We hung out a while waiting for the hot water to kick in, and then went downstairs for a grande “energy” breakfast of scrambled eggs con espinaca, freshly made tortillas and delicious warm, red salsa.   There were a few people about, strolling on the malecon and peddling lazily by on bikes. Harris and Paul walked by on their morning birdwatching expedition. We told them we’d be by in a little while for bloody marys.    playas where??  We walked up to NBC a little while later and found them eating breakfast, so we sat down and I was offered a cup of coffee. Brian mentioned he’d like some chaya juice and Evan walked right outside and picked some and juiced it on the spot.   And then, Harris and Paul had a surprise for us. Evan presented us with a bottle of champagne that his lovely fiancée, Ana, had decorated with ribbon and flowers, and brought out a pitcher of fresh squeezed orange juice.    We toasted and drank mimosas and discussed the news of the day. I failed to mention that as we walked toward their hotel last night, a truck full of policia yielding their guns had driven up the malecon and hopped out by the Nacional Beach Club and quite a commotion ensued. Turns out an intruder had tried to trespass onto the hotel property and they caught the man, a Belizean worker. You’d have thought a major skirmish about to take place with all of the police involved. That was probably the most excitement the little town had seen in some time.  The conversation turned to Evan’s enviable lifestyle in Mahahual. The young Texas transplant lived about 6 km down the beach road toward Xcalak and would be marrying Ana sometime this coming year. Their biggest excitement seemed to be the trips they’d sometimes take to Chetumal for supplies. When the cruise ships would come into port the beach club would spring to life, but otherwise it was a pretty chill existence. We enjoyed hearing his stories, and laughed at the thought of cruisers plopping themselves at the beach for the day, texting drink orders to the bar and paying by paypal. Harris had a bloody mary and I can vouch that is was as tasty as roni has previously mentioned, but we were good to go with the mimosas, so perhaps another time we’ll give them a try.    We went back to our hotel, checked out the view for a while on the new upper deck (we were later told this would be the deck of a two-bedroom suite they were working on) and then packed a beach bag. We were going to go exploring down the beach road for a while.          Harris and Paul met us at 40 Canones and we set out along the route, past the bend in the road outside of town where we took that photo that we’d been staring at as our screensaver for the past year, then pulled in to the little beach past Balam Ku.                   We beachcombed and waded along the beach a little bit before driving on lazily, taking in the flora and fauna and se vende signs along the way. We waved to the few people we’d pass in their yards, a little envious of their simple lifestyles and admiring them for their perseverance in rebuilding their homes after Hurricane Dean’s devastation, just a few short years ago.   And then, at just about km 11 and just shy of the road that connects out to the main Xcalak/Mahahual road, we came upon Hotel el Castillo. We stopped in for a cold drink, but ended up staying for the afternoon.      Gabriella was a friendly hostess, and made a mean Don Julio margarita (“por adultos”, as Steve would say). The setting was sublime, and the only other people there were a couple from Alaska with their baby.      And then, we fell in love.  Frida was Gabriella and her husband Peter’s new puppy, somewhere around 8 or 10 weeks old, and totally precious. We were really missing Ixchel by now and couldn’t get enough puppy love. Well, okay, I admit we had to wake Frida up from her nap to play with us, but she didn’t seem to mind.     Between hanging out talking to Gabriella and the Alaskans, walking the beach and eating a delicious taco lunch the afternoon just slipped by.         Whoaaa, back up. I have to elaborate on the tacos. They rivaled the grilled shrimp tacos at Punta Morena on Cozumel that I’ve considered the best I’ve ever had. At this moment these blew the others on Coz away. We ordered some with shrimp and some with fish. They were both served with peppers, onions, tomatoes and a ‘special sauce’ that was out of this world. The secret ingredients, Gabriella explained, were “these hands….. and love.”  After lunch Gabriella’s husband Peter came out to the bar with their pet parrot, Berto, who entertained us for a bit. We watched Frida play with their dachshund, Dukie, and checked the hotel rooms for future reference. The rooms, though spartan, looked perfectly comfortable ad they were quite reasonably priced for beachfront accommodations.   Eventually we hugged Gabriella and wished her the best (she had just revealed she was expecting) and said we’d be back some day. Peter had to come out and scoop up Frida who had followed us out to the car. Tempting as it was to stow her away, we could never do that to a puppy with such a loving home.   We drove slowly back up the beach road, birdwatching and dreamily house hunting along the way. The same dog kept trotting by us as we stopped briefly here and there, finally beating us back to town.               
Last edited by caramba; 01-15-2012 at 08:23 PM.. |
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01-15-2012
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#113 (permalink) |
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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I need to apologize for my last post being so long and with so many pics- I had to split it up! For such a boring day I sure wrote enough about it!
I'll try not to ramble on so much about our last few days. Here's Sunday December 11th, cont'd- We decided on siestas instead of snorkeling, and planned to meet at NBC for dinner at 7. Evan had told us they’d cook up some freshly caught snapper tonight if we’d like, and we thought that was a great plan. (Nacional Beach Club does not offer dinner as a rule, but they will cook it with advance notice.) After chilling out awhile we called home. We could hear Ixchel barking as our housesitter Locke answered the phone. “Yah, mon, everyting’s fine here. Caramba is good and Ixchel is sleeping on my bed now.” Awwww, I just knew our puppy has forgotten about us. We were glad though that we hadn’t had to put her in a kennel. We could stay down here forever if we didn’t miss our pets at home so much. Harris and Paul must have read our minds when they called saying they were off to Jaime’s place for a pre-dinner drink. We hopped up and joined them at Nohoch Kay, where we were again greeted by the 3 B’s (Jaime was not here this night.) We enjoyed some of the yummy salsas with our Cuba Libres, and then walked back over to NBC for dinner.  We were served homemade, crusty rolls with herbed butter and a goat cheese spread, and salad with a delicious balsamic vinaigrette. The fish was excellent. After dinner Evan brought out rounds of tequila shots and ‘whipped cream’ vodka. The meal was on Harris and Paul as an anniversary present, and we thanked them and said goodnight, as Paul was literally about to fall asleep at the table. We weren’t quite ready for the night to end and took a moonlit stroll up along the malecon.   Everyone we passed was super friendly, and we passed out candy canes to the sweet little kids out walking with their families. A few really drunk guys greeted us as they weaved by as a couple little boys hovered nearby, playing with matches.   Some people were sleeping in hammocks at their shops, while others left their wares out simply covered with a tarp. One lone vendor, Juan from Cozumel, had some shell jewelry set up on a table and we stopped to pick out a few pieces. We turned back toward 40 Canones to call it a night.    It was barely 10:00, but we might as well rest up- tomorrow we were off on a new adventure. |
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01-16-2012
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#115 (permalink) |
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life=playa
Merchant
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Playa del Carmen
Posts: 763
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 You made the best pics  I'm really impressed I heard so much about Mahahual, but I never had been there (of course not  living 15 years in Yukatan and working 6 years as tour guide on Jeep Safaris to Sian Ka'an how could I even think about discovering other places in my country of adoption  )Our next trip will be Mahahual  Thank you so much for sharing this pics This is specially for people like us, to encourage them to learn and see more of this wonderful part of the world  Susie |
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01-16-2012
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#120 (permalink) | ||||||
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añejo
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 6,641
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Need to add some pics to my next installment- hope to post it later tonight... |
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