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Old 09-20-2004   #16 (permalink)
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Everybody knows the 100 Lb rule that applies to bikes and locks, don't they? A bike and its lock are required to weigh 100 Lbs. If you have a beat up old CCM, Schwin, or Raleigh with fat tires, a 3-Speed Sturmey Archer shifter, steel fenders, and a carrier or child seat, that weighs a total of 65 Lbs...you require a 35 Lb lock. If, on the other hand, you are riding one of those, titanium-framed, skinny-wheeled, 38 forward gear, 6 reverse, nut-buster-seated, fenderless, high-tech, speed machines - total weight 9 Lbs...you'll need a 91 Lb lock. The bike will still get stolen, mind you, but it'll look good going away.
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Old 09-20-2004   #17 (permalink)
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You need to get a lock that opens with a car key-style key. It's the locks that use the cylinder/tube style key (like a vending machine key) that are at risk from the Bic pen trick.
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Old 09-20-2004   #18 (permalink)
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Heather,

Thanks for the additional details. If I also purchase a U-type lock (but with car type key) that will secure the frame and leave everything else easily removable. For that reason I prefer a cable type lock. I guess I need a very thick cable? (and no I’m not going to buy one that weights 60lbs). Any recommendations anyone?

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Old 09-20-2004   #19 (permalink)
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Isn't there a u-bolt lock that goes around the frame and front tire? No wait a minute you remove the front tire and move it back to the frame rail so the lock goes through both.
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Old 09-20-2004   #20 (permalink)
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Old 09-20-2004   #21 (permalink)
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Old 09-20-2004   #22 (permalink)
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I can follow Critters recommendation use a U Lock and remove the front wheel. Then lock the front wheel, back wheel and frame together. A minor hassle but one I am now leaning towards.
Or I can continue with my original plan to use a cable lock.

Heather,
How did your cable compare to the one in Tommy’s picture?
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Old 09-20-2004   #23 (permalink)
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My cable lock was not as strong-looking as the one pictured, but it was all they had at the bike shop. I plan on using both a cable lock and a U-lock from now on. Whatever it takes, but that said, if someone really wants the bike, they're going to get it anyway. I try to park it where I or someone I know can keep an eye on it, and bring it inside at night.
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Old 09-20-2004   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heather
Whatever it takes, but that said, if someone really wants the bike, they're going to get it anyway. I try to park it where I or someone I know can keep an eye on it, and bring it inside at night.
I suspect you've hit the nail on the head there, Heather. If they really want it, they'll get it. About the best you can do is to make it inconvenient and time-consuming, in hopes that they'll go swipe somebody else's wheels.
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Old 09-20-2004   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heather
I plan on using both a cable lock and a U-lock from now on. Whatever it takes, but that said, if someone really wants the bike, they're going to get it anyway.
I've read that using both a cable lock and a U-lock is the best method because it requires to different types of tools to hack through them and odds are the perp will only have one such tool on their person. I agree, if someone wants it bad enough... they'll probably find a way to get it.
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Old 09-20-2004   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tyramania
I read an article in the newspaper about a U-shaped bike lock very recently. I don't know if there are other brands of U-shaped locks, but you might want to look for something other than the Kryptonite brand bike lock until they come up with a fix for being able to pick the lock with a ball point pen. Read this article to find out more.

- Tyra
I'm glad I got the cheaper Kryptonite model!!!! Nice linking, Tyra!
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Old 09-20-2004   #27 (permalink)
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I'm glad I got the cheaper Kryptonite model!!!!
Bet you pulled out your handy ball point and picked that lock in seconds flat, didn't you?

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